The Revista Feminina and the fashion in times of war (1914-1918)

Abstract

A publication of great success and impressive selling, the magazine Revista Feminina (1915-1936) – founded by Virgilina de Souza Salles, a prominent figure of the São Paulo elite – had the objective of guiding its readers on domestic issues and making them aware of popular causes in a mo-ment of great expansion of the feminist movement (the right to vote and to work). Among the sections in the magazine approaching various topics, it is worth mentioning the one signed by Marinette, which was named Fashion, accompanied by illustrations (such as drawings and photographs) and focused on infor-mation about fashion from Paris, available in major department stores in São Paulo, such as La Saison and Mappin. World War I had a significant impact on the field of fashion, not only in the disappearance of fluid lines and fair skirts of the Edwardian era but also in the social role of women, who took the places of men in the ammunition factories, as well as offices and shops. Reflections on the changes in fashion as a result of the war were evident in the Fashion section of the magazine Revista Feminina, where Marinette, in addition to commenting on them, informed the readers about the reasons for such changes. The purpose of this article is to analyze the said section of Revista Feminina and propose a social and cultural reflection on the position of the magazine through the texts written by Marinette about the transformations in the fashion industry during the years of the First War, as well as its resonances in the behavior of women.