The Intervened Wardrobe: Making Visible the Agency of Clothes
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.v11i23.718Parole chiave:
Fashion research method, fashion and ecology, fashion practice, wardrobe intervention, material agency.Abstract
The fashion industry is permeated by overconsumption. Mass production, low prices and speed of turnover of trends lead consumers to perceive clothes as disposable objects. The resulting throwaway culture adds to the already problematic environmental impact of the fashion industry. To shift this state of affairs, we propose wardrobe interventions, a method that uses experimental design practices to collect insights and promote more active engagements between wearers and worn by leveraging the notion of material agency. We describe two projects used to develop and verify the method, to demonstrate how foregrounding the agency of clothes can enhance values embedded in wearer-worn relationships, and potentially shift consumer actions.Downloads
Riferimenti bibliografici
AINAMO, A. Rethinking textile fashion: new materiality, smart products, and upcycling. In: Swedish Design Research Journal, n. 2, p. 53-60, 2014. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3384/svid.2000-964X.14253
ALLWOOD, J. M. et al. Well dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the United Kingdom. Cambridge: University of Cambridge, 2006.
BARAD, K. Meeting the universe halfway: quantum physics and the entanglement of matter and meaning. Durham: Duke University Press, 2007. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctv12101zq
BENNETT, J. Vibrant matter: a political ecology of things. London: Duke University Press, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctv111jh6w
______. The force of things: steps toward an ecology of matter. In: Political Theory, v. 32, n. 3, p. 347-372, 2004. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0090591703260853
BERNHAUPT, R., WEISS, A., OBRIST, M.; TSCHELIGI, M. Playful probing: making probing more fun. In: Proceedings of the 11th IFIP TC 13 International Conference on Human-Computer Interaction. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer-Verlag. 2007. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-540-74796-3_60
BOLT, B. Introduction: toward a new materialism through the arts. In: BARRETT, E.; BOLT, B. (Eds.). Carnal knowledge: towards a ‘new materialism’ through the arts. London: I. B.Tauris & Co. Ltd., p. 1-14, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9780755603435.0007
CHAPMAN, J. Design for (emotional) durability. In: Design Issues, v. 25, n. 4, p. 29-36, 2009. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1162/desi.2009.25.4.29
CILA, N.; GIACCARDI, E.; TYNAN-O’MAHONY, F.; SPEED, C.; CALDWELL, M. Thing-centered narratives: a study of object personas. In: Collaborative Formation of Issues Proceedings, January 22-23, Aarhus, DK., p. 1-17, 2015.
COOLE, D.; FROST, S. Introducing the new materialisms. In: COOLE, D.; FROST, S. (Eds.). New materialism: ontology, agency & politics. London: Duke University Press, p. 1-43, 2010 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1215/9780822392996-001
.
CSM. Central Saint Martins Website. Available at: http://www.arts.ac.uk/csm/courses/short-courses/fashion-design/experimental-fashion-design-online/. Accessed on: 13th December 2016.
DAVIS, F. Fashion, culture and identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1992. DOI: https://doi.org/10.7208/chicago/9780226167954.001.0001
DUNNE, A.; RABY, F. Design noir. Basel: Birkhäuser, 2001. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350070660
FLETCHER, K. Craft of use. Post growth-fashion. New York: Routledge, 2016. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315647371
______. Slow fashion: an invitation for systems change. In: Fashion Practice The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry, v. 2, n. 2, p. 259-266, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387594
FLETCHER, K.; KLEPP, I. Opening up the wardrobe. A method book. Oslo: Novus Press, 2017.
FRASER, H. CloTHING(s) as conversation. In: Clothing Cultures, v. 1, n. 2, pp. 155-169, 1st March 2014. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/cc.1.2.155_1
GAVER, B.; MARTIN, H. Alternatives: exploring information appliances through conceptual design proposals. In: Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems – CHI ’00, v. 2, n.
, p. 209-216, 2001.
GAVER, W.; BOUCHER, A.; PENNINGTON, S.; WALKER, B. Cultural probes and the value of uncertainty. In: Interactions – Funology, v. 11, n. 5, p. 53-56, September to October, 2004. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/1015530.1015555
GAVER, W.; DUNNE, T.; PANCETI, E. Cultural probes. In: ACM Interactions, n. 6, p. 21-29, 1999. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/291224.291235
GIBSON, J. J. The ecological approach to visual perception. Boston: Houghton- Mifflin, 1979.
HEMMINGS, T.; CRABTREE, A.; RODDEN, T.; CLARKE, K.; ROUNCEFIELD, M. Probing the probes. In: Proceedings of the Participatory Design Conference 2002, edited by T. Binder, J. Gregory, and I. Wagner, p. 40-50, 2002.
HULKKO, S.; MATTELMÄKI, T.; VIRTANEN, K.; KEINONEN, T. Mobile probes. In: Proceedings of NordiCHI04, edited by A. Hyrskykari, p. 43-51, 2004. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/1028014.1028020
HUTCHINSON, H.; MACKAY, W.; WESTERLUND, B.; BEDERSON, B. B.; DRUIN, A.; PLAISANT, C.; BEAUDOUINLAFON, M.; CONVERSY, H.; EVANS, H.; HANSEN, H.; ROUSSEL, N.; EIDERBACK, B.; LINDQUIST, S.; SUNDBLAD, Y. Technology probes: inspiring design for and with families. In: Proceedings of the conference on human factors in computing systems CHI03, p. 17-24. Fort Lauderdale, FL: ACM Press, 2003. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/642611.642616
INGOLD, T. Making. [s.l.]: Routledge, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203559055
KAISER, S. The social psychology of clothing: symbolic appearances in context (2nd ed.). New York: Macmillan Publishing Company, 1990.
KIM, H.; CHOO, H. J.; YOON, N. The motivational drivers of fast fashion avoidance. In: Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, v. 17, n. 2, p. 234-260, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0070
KLEPP, I. G.; BJERCK, M. A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: wardrobe studies. In: International Journal of Social Research Methodology, v. 17, n. 4, p. 373-386, 2014. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/13645579.2012.737148
KUJALA, S.; MIRON-SHATZ, T. Emotions, experiences and usability in real-life mobile phone use. In: Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (CHI’13). New York: ACM, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/2470654.2466135
LASCHKE, M. et al. ‘Annoying, but in a nice way’: an inquiry into the experience of frictional feedback. In: International Journal of Design, v. 9, n. 2, p. 129-140, 2015.
LATOUR, B. Reassembling the social: an introduction to actor-network theory. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2005. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780199256044.001.0001
LUNDGAARD, L.; LARSEN, U. Applying probes as an inspirational research tool for fashion design. In: Nordes 2007, p. 1-7, 2007. DOI: https://doi.org/10.21606/nordes.2007.034
MATTELMÄKI, T. Applying probes – from inspirational notes to collaborative insights. In: CoDesign, v. 1, n.2, p. 83-102, 2015. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/15719880500135821
MICA. Maryland Institute College of Art website. Available at: https://www.mica.edu/Programs_of_Study/Undergraduate_Programs/Fiber/Experimental_Fashion_Studio_Concentration.html. Accessed on:
th December, 2016.
MILLER, D.; KÜCHLER, S. Clothing as material culture. Oxford: Berg, 2005. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/9780857854056
MUGGE, R.; SCHOORMANS, J. P. L. A longitudinal study of product attachment and its determinants. In: Advances in Consumer Research, v. 7, p. 641-647, 2006.
NELSON, H.; STOLTERMAN, E. The design way: intentional change in an unpredictable world. Englewood Cliffs: Educational Technology Publications, 2003.
NIMKULRAT, N. Paperness, expressive material in textile art from an artist’s viewpoint. Helsinki: Aalto University, 2009.
RIGBY, E. Laundry probes. In: FLETCHER, K.; KLEPP, I. (Eds.). Opening up the wardrobe. A methods book. Oslo: Novus Forlag, 2017.
SAMPSON, E. The cleaved garment: the maker, the wearer and the ‘me and not me’ of fashion practice. In: Fashion Theory, 7419, p. 1-20, September 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2017.1366187
______. Worn: footwear, attachment and affective experience. London: The Royal College of Arts, 2016.
SKJOLD, E. The daily selection. Kolding: Designskolen Kolding, 2014.
SPŁAWA-NEYMAN, T. Care making. Practices of gleaning, using and future fashioning. Melbourne: RMIT, 2014.
TIAINEN, M.; KONTTURI, K.; HONGISTO, I. Framing, following, middling: towards methodologies of relational materialities. In: Cultural Studies Review, v. 21, n. 2, 2015. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5130/csr.v21i2.4407
VALLE NORONHA, J. On the agency of clothes: surprise as a tool towards stronger engagements. In: Research Through Design 2017, p. 519-534. Edinburgh, 21-24 March 2017a.
______. Time as a design space: designing surprise in clothing experience and maintenance. In: Annals of the 13o Colóquio de Moda. Bauru: Unesp, 2017b.
______. (Dress (v.): Encorporeamento de movimentos através de modelagem criativa. In: Annals of the 12o Colóquio de Moda. João Pessoa: UFPE, 2016.
VON BUSCH, O. Fashion-able: hacktivism and engaged fashion design. Gothenburg: University of Gothenburg, 2008.
WILDE, D. PKI: crafting critical design. In: The ACM Conference on Designing Interactive Systems (DIS’14), p. 365-374. Vancouver, Canada, June 21-25, 2014.
WILDE, D.; UNDERWOOD, J. Designing towards the unknown: engaging with material and aesthetic uncertainty. In: Informatics 2018, v. 5, n. 1, 1, 2018. doi:10.3390/informatics5010001 http://www.mdpi.com/2227-9709/5/1/1/html. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/informatics5010001