Fashion consumption in the pandemic: unintended consumer deceleration
Keywords:
Unintended deceleration, Fashion, COVID-19, Restrictive situation, Management decisionsAbstract
This study aims to answer how unintentional consumer slowdown affects fashion consumption. Studies related to fashion and temporal disconnections experienced by consumers are considered as a theoretical basis. Phenomenological interviews were carried out with women who had their consumption practices modified as a result of the pandemic, and hermeneutic analysis was applied to the data. As a result, impacts on consumption resulting from the deceleration were found, which are related to the environments accessed, with the reduction of socializations, and with the discomfort with body changes that occurred during social isolation. The work makes theoretical contributions to the phenomenon of deceleration, showing elements that compose it, and bringing useful information to support managerial decisions in periods of deceleration by showing how women have been related to the consumption of clothes in the period.
Downloads
References
ALVES, Cristiane Fatima; PEPECE, Olga Maria Coutinho. Significados simbólicos das roupas de fast de fashion. Projetica, v. 5, n. 1, p. 75-94, 2014.
ARNOLD, Stephen J.; FISCHER, Eileen. Hermeneutics and consumer research. Journal of consumer research, v. 21, n. 1, p. 55-70, 1994.
ARNOULD, Eric J.; PRICE, Linda L. River magic: Extraordinary experience and the extended service encounter. Journal of consumer Research, v. 20, n. 1, p. 24-45, 1993.
BARTHES, R. The language of fashion. New York: Bloomsbury, 2013.
BAUDRILLARD, J. A sociedade de consumo. Rio de Janeiro: Elfos, 1995.
BELK, Russell W.; COSTA, Janeen Arnold. The mountain man myth: A contemporary consuming fantasy. Journal of consumer research, v. 25, n. 3, p. 218-240, 1998.
BELK, R.; EILEEN F; KOZINETS, R. Qualitative Consumer and Marketing Research. Londres: Sage, 2013.
BLUMER, Herbert. Fashion: From class differentiation to collective selection. The sociological quarterly, v. 10, n. 3, p. 275-291, 1969. DOI:10.1111/j.1533-8525.1969. Tb01292.x
BRICKELL, Chris. Through the (new) looking glass: Gendered bodies, fashion and resistance in postwar New Zealand. Journal of Consumer Culture, v. 2, n. 2, p. 241-269, 2002.
CARLSON, Jeffrey R.; ROSS, William T.; COULTER, Robin A.; MARQUARDT, Adam J. About time in marketing: An assessment of the study of time and conceptual framework. AMS Review, v. 9, n. 3, p. 136-154, 2019.
CASTILHOS, Rodrigo B.; DOLBEC, Pierre-Yann. Conceptualizing spatial types: Characteristics, transitions, and research avenues. Marketing Theory, v. 18, n. 2, p. 154-168, 2018.
CASTILHOS, Rodrigo B.; DOLBEC, Pierre-Yann; VERESIU, Ela. Introducing a spatial perspective to analyze market dynamics. Marketing Theory, v. 17, n. 1, p. 9-29, 2017.
CELSI, Richard L.; ROSE, Randall L.; LEIGH, Thomas W. An exploration of high-risk leisure consumption through skydiving. Journal of consumer research, v. 20, n. 1, p. 1-23, 1993.
DELHAYE, Christine. The development of consumption culture and the individualization of female identity: Fashion discourse in the Netherlands 1880-1920. Journal of Consumer Culture, v. 6, n. 1, p. 87-115, 2006.
FARIAS, Heitor Soares de. O avanço da Covid-19 e o isolamento social como estratégia para redução da vulnerabilidade. Espaço e Economia. Revista brasileira de geografia econômica, n. 17, 2020.
FONSECA, J. G. M.; PEREIRA, M. J. L. Faces da decisão: Abordagem sistêmica do processo decisório. Rio de Janeiro: Grupo Gen-LTC, 2002.
FOUCAULT, M. Discipline and punish: the birth of the prison. Durhma: Duke University Press, 2007.
FOUCAULT, M. História da sexualidade III: o cuidado de si. Rio de Janeiro: Graal, 1985.
HEMETSBERGER, Andrea; KREUZER, Maria; KLIEN, Melanie. From caterpillar to butterfly: Experiencing spirituality via body transformation. Journal of Marketing Management, v.35, n. 5-6, p. 540-564, 2019.
HUSEMANN, Katharina C.; ECKHARDT, Giana M. Consumer deceleration. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 45, n. 6, p. 1142-1163, 2019.
IBGE. Pesquisa mensal de comércio. 2021. Recuperado de: https://www.ibge.gov.br/estatisticas/economicas/comercio/9227-pesquisa-mensal-de-comercio.html?=&t=resultados.
JAYNE, Mark; FERENČUHOVÁ, Slavomíra. Comfort, identity and fashion in the post-socialistcity: Materialities, assemblages and context. Journal of consumer culture, v. 15, n. 3, p.329-350, 2015.
KLEIBER, Douglas; MCGUIRE, Francis A.; AYBAR-DAMALI, Begum; NORMAN, William. Having more by doing less: The paradox of leisure constraints in later life. Journal of Leisure Research, v. 40, n. 3, p. 343-359, 2008.
KOZINETS, Robert V. Can consumers escape the market? Emancipatory illuminations from burning man. Journal of Consumer research, v. 29, n. 1, p. 20-38, 2002.
LIPOVETSKY, G. O império do efêmero: a moda e seu destino nas sociedades modernas. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, 2009.
MARION, Gilles; NAIRN, Agnes. “We make the shoes, you make the story” Teenage girls’ experiences of fashion: Bricolage, tactics and narrative identity. Consumption, Markets and Culture, v. 14, n. 1, p. 29-56, 2011.
MARKKULA, Annu; MIKKONEN, Ilona; VICDAN, Handan. What Not to Wear?: Consumer Government in Wardrobe Self-Help. ACR North American Advances, 2011. Disponível em: https://www.acrwebsite.org/volumes/v39/acr_v39_9862.pdf
MCQUARRIE, Edward F.; MILLER, Jessica; PHILLIPS, Barbara J. The megaphone effect: Taste and audience in fashion blogging. Journal of consumer research, v. 40, n. 1, p. 136-158, 2013.
MILES, M. B.; HUBERMAN, A. M. Qualitative data analysis: An expanded sourcebook. Thousand Oaks: Sage, 1994.
MURRAY, Jeff B. The politics of consumption: A re-inquiry on Thompson and Haytko’s (1997) “Speaking of Fashion”. Journal of consumer research, v. 29, n. 3, p. 427-440, 2002.
NEWHOLM, Terry; HOPKINSON, Gillian C. I just tend to wear what I like: contemporary consumption and the paradoxical construction of individuality. Marketing Theory, v. 9, n. 4, p. 439-462, 2009.
OH, Haemoon; ASSAF, A. George; BALOGLU, Seyhmus. Motivations and goals of slow tourism. Journal of Travel Research, v. 55, n. 2, p. 205-219, 2016.
OPINION BOX. Impacto nos hábitos de compra e consumo, 2021. Disponível em: https://rdstation-static.s3.amazonaws.com/cms%2Ffiles%2F7540%2F1591127455Pesquisa_COVID_19_-_10_EDIO.pdf
OURAHMOUNE, Nacima; ÖZÇAĞLAR-TOULOUSE, Nil. Exogamous weddings and fashion in a rising consumer culture: Kabyle minority dynamics of structure and agency. Marketing Theory, v. 12, n. 1, p. 81-99, 2012.
PARMENTIER, Marie‐Agnès; FISCHER, Eileen. You can’t always get what you want: Unsustainable identity projects in the fashion system. Consumption, Markets and Culture, v. 14, n. 1, p. 7-27, 2011.
ROSA, Hartmut. Social acceleration: Ethical and political consequences of a desynchronized high–speed society. Constellations, v. 10, n. 1, p. 3-33, 2003.
SANDIKCI, Özlem; GER, Güliz. Veiling in style: How does a stigmatized practice become fashionable?. Journal of consumer research, v. 37, n. 1, p. 15-36, 2010.
SASSATELLI, Roberta; DAVOLIO, Federica. Consumption, pleasure and politics: Slow food and the politico-aesthetic problematization of food. Journal of Consumer Culture, v. 10, n. 2, p. 202-232, 2010.
SAUERBRONN, João Felipe Rammelt; TEIXEIRA, Camila dos Santos; LODI, Marluce Dantas de Freitas. Saúde, estética e eficiência: Relações entre práticas de consumo de alimentos as mulheres e seus corpos. Cadernos EBAPE. BR, v. 17, p. 389-402, 2019.
SCHOUTEN, John W.; MCALEXANDER, James H. Subcultures of consumption: An ethnography of the new bikers. Journal of consumer research, v. 22, n. 1, p. 43-61, 1995.
SHOVE, E.; PANTZAR, M.; WATSON, M. The dynamics of social practice: Everyday life and how it changes. Thousand Oaks: Sage, 2012.
SIMMEL, Georg. Fashion. American journal of sociology, v. 62, n. 6, p. 541-558, 1957.
SOLOMON, Michael R.; PRUITT, Dayton J.; INSKO, Chester A. Taste versus fashion: The inferred objectivity of aesthetic judgments. Empirical Studies of the Arts, v. 2, n. 2, p. 113-125, 1984.
THOMPSON, Craig J.; HAYTKO, Diana L. Speaking of fashion: Consumers’ uses of fashion discourses and the appropriation of countervailing cultural meanings. Journal of consumer research, v. 24, n. 1, p. 15-42, 1997.
THOMPSON, Craig J. Interpreting consumers: A hermeneutical framework for deriving marketing insights from the texts of consumers’ consumption stories. Journal of marketing Research, v. 34, n. 4, p. 438-455, 1997.
TONINI, Karla Andrea Dulce; SAUERBRONN, João Felipe Rammelt. Mulheres e corpo: Uma investigação acerca dos valores de consumo do corpo feminino. Revista Brasileira de Marketing, v. 12, n. 3, p. 77-101, 2013. DOI:10.5585/remark.v12i3.2428
TUMBAT, Gülnur; BELK, Russell W. Co‐construction and performancescapes. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, v. 12, n. 1, p. 49-59, 2013.
VOLONTÉ, Paolo. The thin ideal and the practice of fashion. Journal of Consumer Culture, v. 19, n. 2, p. 252-270, 2019.
WOERMANN, Niklas; ROKKA, Joonas. Timeflow: How consumption practices shape consumers’ temporal experiences. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 41, n. 6, p. 1486-1508, 2015.
ZANETTE, Maria Carolina; BRITO, Eliane Pereira Zamith. Fashionable subjects and complicity resistance: Power, subjectification, and bounded resistance in the context of plussize consumers. Consumption Markets & Culture, v. 22, n. 4, p. 363-382, 2019.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2023 Solange Diniz Fernandes, Ronan Torres Quintão
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
The copyrights of the works published in this journal belong to the author, and dObra[s] holds the rights of first publication. Due to their publication in this open access journal, any work here is free to use, with its own attributions, in educational and non-commercial applications.
