What is “Asian” beauty? Chinese and South Korean racialized appearances in the Mexican and Peruvian makeup industries1

Autori

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.i38.1590

Parole chiave:

Beauty, cosmetics, body, Asianness, K-beauty, Latin America

Abstract

This article will try to answer, what is understood by “Asian” beauty in Latin America and how race, history and politics have decanted to the almost opposite reception of Chinese and South Korean aesthetics and corporalities. It is based on my research on beauty and the role of makeup in the negotiated construction of appearances. Firstly, I will explore the concepts of beauty and race brought by colonial imposition to the territories that would become Peru and Mexico. I will then explore how these were employed strategically to reinforce the oppression and discriminatory treatment of indigenous populations. In addition, I will focus on the current cosmetic offer from South Korea to the Mexican market, and the reception its versions of beauty have had within the past decade. Online trends helped to generate local demand of K-beauty makeup, one of the many South Korean industries involved in “soft power” politics.. Convergent definitions about health and youth are symbolic motors of its success; the racial bias applied to slim, light-skinned and traditionally feminine-looking bodies helps sell “Asian” beauty as inspirational. Afterwards, I will explore what informants identified as “Chinese”, whether they were referring to products or aesthetic presentations, and their distance from class and racial desirability. My argument follows the complicated treatment Chinese-descended people still encounter in Peru and in Mexico; including the ways my own body has been addressed and altered with makeup as a Chinese–Peruvian.

Downloads

I dati di download non sono ancora disponibili.

Biografia autore

Andrea Gómez, Universidad Autónoma Metropolitana – Iztapalapa

Doutora. Universidad Autónoma Metropolitana – Iztapalapa, andreacarolina221@xanum.uam.mx, https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Andrea-Gomez-49

Riferimenti bibliografici

AHMED, Sara. The Cultural Politics of Emotion. 2º ed. Cidade do México: Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México – UNAM, 2014 [2004].

ALEXANDER, Bryant Keith; RAIMONDI, Gustavo Antonio. Pele negra/máscaras brancas: a sustentabilidade performativa da branquitude (com desculpas a Frantz Fanon) Sexualidad, Salud y Sociedad, n. 37, e21303, 2021. http://doi.org/10.1590/1984-6487.sess.2021.37. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1590/1984-6487.sess.2021.37.e21303.a

e21303.a

AMÉRICA ECONOMÍA. Mercado de cosméticos en Perú podría facturar US$3.000M en 2015. América Economía, 12 set. 2010. http://www.americaeconomia.com/negociosindustrias/mercado-de-cosmeticos-en-peru-podria-facturar-us3000m-en-2015

BENETATOS, Denise Christiana. Cultural models of appearance and the social worlds of South Korean women. Dissertação (Mestrado em Antropologia). California: California State University, 2014.

BHABHA, Homi. El lugar de la cultura. Buenos Aires: Manantial, 2007 [1994].

CINCO, Mónica. “A mí no me pueden volver a sacar” Etnografía práctica desde los márgenes de la diáspora chino mexicana. Dissertação (Doutorado em Antropologia). Cidade do México: Universidad Autónoma Metropolitana – Iztapalapa, 2017.

CRUZ, Tania. Las pieles que vestimos, corporeidad y prácticas de belleza en jóvenes chiapanecas. San Cristóbal de Las Casas: El Colegio de la Frontera Sur, 2014.

CUMES, Aura. La “india” como “sirvienta”: Servidumbre doméstica, colonialismo y patriarcado en Guatemala. Dissertação (Doutorado em Antropologia). Cidade do México: CIESAS, 2014.

DEL ÁGUILA, Alicia. Los velos y las pieles: cuerpo, género y reordenamiento social en el Perú republicano (Lima, 1822 – 1872). Lima: Instituto de Estudios Peruanos, 2003.

DIAZ, Thatiana. Why Hasn’t the “Fenty Effect” Hit K-Beauty? Refinery29, 17 oct. 2018. https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/k-beauty-bb-cc-cream-darker-shades

ELMAN, Benjamin; DUNCAN, John; OOMS, Herman. Rethinking Confucianism: Past and Present in China, Japan, Korea, and Vietnam. Los Angeles: UCLA Asian Pacific Monograph Series, 2002.

ESCOBEDO, Luis. Colonial heritage in multi-ethnic societies: undercover racism in twentyfirst- century Peru. Studia z Geografii Politycznej i Historycznej, v. 2, p. 109–137, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.18778/2300-0562.02.06

FRANKENBERGER, Rolf. Learning from Baudrillard and Foucault: Consumer Culture, Social Milieus and the Governmentality of Lifestyle. Ensaio apresentado na 31a Conferencia Annual ISPP, Paris: Jul. 2008.

GALLARDO, Sergio (2015) Los coreanos en México: Un estudio sobre integración de la comunidad coreana en la Zona Rosa de la Ciudad de México. Dissertação (Licenciatura em Sociologia). Cidade do México: Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México.

GARCÍA BRAVO, María Haydeé III. Territorio, cuerpos femeninos y racialización, México siglo XIX. Apresentação no IV Congreso de Estudios Poscoloniales y IV Jornadas de Feminismo Poscolonial “Cuerpos, imaginarios y procesos de racialización contemporáneos en el

Sur”, Buenos Aires: Nov. 2018.

GÓMEZ, Andrea. El lápiz labial: Identidad, presentación y experiencias de la feminidad. Dissertação (Licenciatura em Antropologia). Lima: Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, 2012.

GÓMEZ, Andrea. El lápiz labial: Identidad, presentación y experiencias de la feminidad. Dissertação (Mestrado em Antropologia Visual). Lima: Pontificia Universidad Católica del Perú, 2014.

GÓMEZ, Andrea. Modelos y prácticas de belleza entre los trabajadores formales en venta y aplicación de maquillaje en Ciudad de México. Dissertação (Doutorado em Ciências Antropológicas). Cidade do México: Universidad Autónoma Metropolitana –

Iztapalapa, 2020.

JARRÍN, Álvaro. Cosmetic Citizenship: Beauty, Affect and Inequality in Southeastern Brazil. Dissertação (Doutorado em Antropologia). Duke University: Chapel Hill, 2010.

JHA, Meeta Rani. The global beauty industry: colorism, racism, and the national body. Londres: Routledge, 2016. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315733432

JONES, Carl W. Racism and Classism in Mexican Advertising. An Exhibition of Visual Messaging. Em: OLTEANU, Alin; STABLES, Andrew; BORŢUN, Dumitru (eds); Meanings & Co. The Interdisciplinarity of Communication, Semiotics and Multimodality. Berlim:

Springer, 2018, p. 213–266.

JONES, Geoffrey. Beauty Imagined. A history of the global beauty industry. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1093/acprof:osobl/9780199639625.001.0001

KANG, Miliann. The Managed Hand: The Commercialization of Bodies and Emotions in Korean Immigrant–Owned Nail Salons. Gender & Society, v. 17, n. 6, 2003, p. 820–839. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0891243203257632

KIM, Taeyon. Neo-Confucian Body Techniques: Women’s Bodies in Korea’s Consumer Society. Body & Society, v. 9, n. 2, 2003, p. 97–113. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1357034X030092005

LA TORRE, Ricardo. Nota histórica. La inmigración china en el Perú (1850-1890). Boletín de la Sociedad Peruana de Medicina Interna, v. 5, n. 3, 1992. http://sisbib.unmsm.edu.pe/bvrevistas/spmi/v05n3/inmigraci%C3%B3n.htm

LAUSENT-HERRERA, Isabelle. Mujeres Olvidadas: esposas, concubinas e hijas de los inmigrantes chinos en el Perú republicano. In: OPHELAN, Scarlett; ZEGARRA, Margarita. Mujeres, familia y Sociedad en la Historia de América Latina, siglos XVIII-X. Lima: Riva

Agüero-Cendoc Mujer, IFEA, PUCP; 2006, p. 287-312.

LEE, Sharon Heijin. The (geo) politics of beauty: race, transnationalism, And neoliberalism in South Korean beauty culture. Dissertação (Doutorado em Filosofia – Cultura Americana). Michigan: The University of Michigan, 2012.

LI, Debra. Catch Phrase | 平替 píngtì. Shenzhen Daily, 11 nov. 2021. https://www.eyeshenzhen.com/content/2021-11/17/content_24747233.htm

LI, Sara. The problems with Instagram’s most popular beauty filters, from augmentation to eurocentrism. Nylon, 10 jul. 2020a. https://www.nylon.com/beauty/instagrams-beautyfilters-perpetuate-the-industrys-ongoing-racism

LI, Sara. The Fox Eye Trend Is Just Cultural Appropriation of Asian Features. Teen Vogue, 20 ago. 2020b. https://www.teenvogue.com/story/fox-eye-trend-cultural-appropriationasian-features

LIEBELT, Claudia. Grooming Istanbul. Intimate Encounters and Concerns in Turkish Beauty Salons”. Journal of Middle East Women’s Studies, v. 12, n. 2, 2016, p. 181–202. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1215/15525864-3507628

LIU, Marian. Skin whiteners are still in demand, despite health concerns. CNN Health, 3 set. 2018. https://edition.cnn.com/2018/09/02/health/skin-whitening-lightening-asia-intl/index.html

MARKETLINE. Make-Up in Mexico. Junho 2016, código do informe OHME6650-ML. https://store.marketline.com/report/make-up-in-mexico-3/

MARTIN, Morag. Selling Beauty: Cosmetics, Commerce, and French Society, 1750-1830. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2009. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1353/book.3456

MBEMBE, Achille. Crítica de la razón negra. Tradução E. Schmukler. Madrid: Futuro Anterior Ediciones, 2016 [2013].

MICELI, Sergio. A noite da madrinha. São Paulo: Editoria Perspectiva, 1972.

MICELI, Sergio. Introdução: A força do sentido. Em: BOURDIEU, Pierre, A economia das trocas simbólicas. São Paulo: Editora Perspectiva, 1982, p. VII - LXI.

MILLER, Laura. Deracialisation or Body Fashion? Cosmetic Surgery and Body Modification in Japan. Asian Studies Review, v. 45, n. 2, 2021, p. 217-237. DOI: 10.1080/10357823.2020.1764491 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/10357823.2020.1764491

MOLINA-GUZMÁN, Isabel. Dangerous Curves: Latina Bodies in the Media. Nova Iorque: New York University Press, 2010.

MORENO, Mónica; SALDÍVAR, Emiko. ‘We Are Not Racists, We Are Mexicans’: Privilege, Nationalism and Post-Race Ideology in Mexico. Critical Sociology, v. 42, n. 4-5, 2016, p. 515–533. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0896920515591296

NAN, Lisa. Can C-Beauty Brands Cultivate Loyal Consumers? Jing Daily, 10 nov. 2021 - https://jingdaily.com/c-beauty-brands-loyal-chinese-consumers/

NAVARRETE LINARES, Federico. Blanquitud vs. blancura, mestizaje y privilegio en México de los siglos XIX a XXI, una propuesta de interpretación. Estudios Sociológicos, n. 40 (número especial), fev. 2022, p. 127-162. DOI: https://doi.org/10.24201/es.2022v40.2080

NIEVES, Abigail; GARCÍA, Vivette; LÓPEZ, Carlos. ¿De qué me ves cara?: Narrativas de herencia, genética e identidad inscritas en la apariencia. Revista de Antropología Iberoamericana, v. 12, n. 3, Set. – Dec. 2017, p. 313–337. DOI: https://doi.org/10.11156/aibr.v12i3.68194

OH, Hyeyoung. Becoming “Beautiful”… Becoming “American”? A Study on Constructions of Beauty and Identity Among Korean and Filipina Women in the United States. Thinking Gender Papers. Ensaio no UCLA Center for the Study of Women, UC Los Angeles, 2008.

http://escholarship.org/uc/item/9735p8w7

POWER, Camilla. Cosmetics, Identity and Consciousness. Journal of Consciousness Studies, v. 17, n. 7–8, 2010, p. 73–94.

QUIJANO, Aníbal. Cuestiones y horizontes: de la dependencia histórico-estructural a la colonialidad/ descolonialidad del poder. Seleção CLÍMACO, Danilo A. Buenos Aires: Consejo Latinoamericano de Ciencias Sociales – CLACSO, 2014, p. 285–327.

RODRÍGUEZ PASTOR, Humberto. Herederos del dragón. Historia de la comunidad china en el Perú. Lima: Fondo Editorial del Congreso del Perú, 2000.

ROJAS, Guillermo. Las clases sociales en Karl Marx y Max Weber: elementos para una comparación. Germinal, documento de trabalho, n. 11, Dec. 2011. Asunção: Centro de Estudios y Educación Popular Germinal.

SEIJAS, Tatiana. Asian Slaves in Colonial Mexico. From Chinos to Indians. Nova Iorque: Cambridge Latin American studies, 2014. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9781107477841

SOLÍS, Oliva. Prácticas culturales en torno a la belleza femenina en México. Apresentação no I Coloquio Argentino-Mexicano sobre Estudios de las Mujeres y de Género: “Cultura, Patrimonio y Mujeres”. Universidad Nacional de Luján, apresentado no set. 2012.

STEPAN, Nancy Leys. “The Hour of Eugenics”: Race, Gender, and Nation in Latin America. Nova Iorque: Cornell University Press, 1991. DOI: https://doi.org/10.7591/9781501702266

SUÁREZ, Laura; SUAZO, López. Eugenesia y racismo en México. Cidade do México: Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, 2005.

SYNNOTT, Anthony. Truth and Goodness, Mirrors and Masks -- Part I: A Sociology of Beauty and the Face. The British Journal of Sociology, v. 40, n. 4, 1989, p. 607–636. http://www.jstor.org/stable/590891 DOI: https://doi.org/10.2307/590891

TAUSSIG, Michael. Defacement: Public secrecy and the labor of the negative. California: Stanford University Press, 1999. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/9781503617131

TOLENTINO, Jia. The Age of Instagram Face. The New Yorker, especial Decade in Review. 12 dec. 2019. https://www.newyorker.com/culture/decade-in-review/the-age-of-instagram-face DOI: https://doi.org/10.32376/3f8575cb.760db98a

TUNGATE, Mark. Branded beauty: how marketing changed the way we look. Londres: Kogan, 2011.

WALLERSTEIN, Immanuel. El eurocentrismo y sus avatares: Los dilemas de las ciencias sociales. Revista De Sociología, n. 15, 2001, p. 27–39. https://doi.org/10.5354/rds.v0i15.27767 DOI: https://doi.org/10.5354/0719-529X.2001.27767

WHITEHEAD, Alfred. Process and Reality. Nova Iorque: Free Press, 2015 [1978].

WIEVIORKA, Michel. Diferencias culturales, racismo y democracia. Em: MATO, Daniel (coord.): Políticas de identidades y diferencias sociales en tiempos de globalización. Caracas: FACES–UCV, 2003, p. 17–32.

Downloads

Pubblicato

2023-08-01

Come citare

GÓMEZ, A. What is “Asian” beauty? Chinese and South Korean racialized appearances in the Mexican and Peruvian makeup industries1. dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda, [S. l.], n. 38, p. 95–117, 2023. DOI: 10.26563/dobras.i38.1590. Disponível em: https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1590. Acesso em: 3 nov. 2024.

Fascicolo

Sezione

Dossiê