From Tartan to Turmoil: Sensory Engagement and Historical Narratives in Alexander McQueen’s “Highland Rape”

Resumo

This paper examines Alexander McQueen’s “Highland Rape” (Autumn/Winter 1995) as a collection that transcends aesthetics to explore trauma, resilience, and historical memory. Known for its provocative title and graphic imagery, the collection challenges conventional beauty and redefines fashion’s role in society by confronting audiences with layered narratives of personal and collective suffering. Through torn fabrics, exposed skin, and stark contrasts, McQueen delivers a potent commentary on the violent history of the Scottish Highlands, intertwined with his personal experiences. Grounded in the theoretical frameworks of Roland Barthes and Michel Foucault - particularly Barthes’s semiotic theory and Foucault’s notions of power and bodily discipline - this study examines how McQueen transforms the runway into a symbolic stage. His garments function as signs - mutable, provocative, and saturated with meaning - while the performative nature of the show provokes both visceral and intellectual engagement. Contributions from Caroline Evans and Judith Watt further situate McQueen’s work within a tradition of fashion as a critical narrative. Ultimately, the paper argues that “Highland Rape” exemplifies fashion’s potential to provoke dialogue on identity, memory, and socio-political critique. Positioned within the broader discourse of fashion as both an expressive art form and a design practice, the collection continues to resonate as a transformative force in contemporary fashion history.