O guarda-roupa interferido: tornando visível a agência das roupas

Autores

  • Julia Valle Noronha
  • Danielle Wilde

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.v11i23.718

Palavras-chave:

Métodos de pesquisa em moda, moda e ecologia, prática em moda, intervenção em guarda-roupa, agência material.

Resumo

A indústria da moda é permeada por hiperconsumo. Produção em massa, preços baixos e tendências fazem com que consumidores percebam roupas como descartáveis. Essa cultura do descarte se soma aos já problemá- ticos impactos ambientais causados pela indústria. Para alterar esse cenário propomos intervenções em guarda-roupas, um método que parte de práticas experimentais em design para promover engajamentos mais ativos entre usuários e vestíveis, com suporte da noção de agência material. A partir de dois casos, usados para desenvolver e verificar o método, demonstramos como é possível intensificar valores presentes nas relações usuário-vestível através da percepção da agência das roupas, e, potencialmente, alterar ações de consumidores.

Downloads

Não há dados estatísticos.

Referências

AINAMO, A. Rethinking textile fashion: new materiality, smart products, and upcycling. In: Swedish Design Research Journal, n. 2, p. 53-60, 2014. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3384/svid.2000-964X.14253

ALLWOOD, J. M. et al. Well dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the United Kingdom. Cambridge: University of Cambridge, 2006.

BARAD, K. Meeting the universe halfway: quantum physics and the entanglement of matter and meaning. Durham: Duke University Press, 2007. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctv12101zq

BENNETT, J. Vibrant matter: a political ecology of things. London: Duke University Press, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2307/j.ctv111jh6w

______. The force of things: steps toward an ecology of matter. In: Political Theory, v. 32, n. 3, p. 347-372, 2004. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0090591703260853

BERNHAUPT, R., WEISS, A., OBRIST, M.; TSCHELIGI, M. Playful probing: making probing more fun. In: Proceedings of the 11th IFIP TC 13 International Conference on Human-Computer Interaction. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer-Verlag. 2007. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-540-74796-3_60

BOLT, B. Introduction: toward a new materialism through the arts. In: BARRETT, E.; BOLT, B. (Eds.). Carnal knowledge: towards a ‘new materialism’ through the arts. London: I. B.Tauris & Co. Ltd., p. 1-14, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9780755603435.0007

CHAPMAN, J. Design for (emotional) durability. In: Design Issues, v. 25, n. 4, p. 29-36, 2009. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1162/desi.2009.25.4.29

CILA, N.; GIACCARDI, E.; TYNAN-O’MAHONY, F.; SPEED, C.; CALDWELL, M. Thing-centered narratives: a study of object personas. In: Collaborative Formation of Issues Proceedings, January 22-23, Aarhus, DK., p. 1-17, 2015.

COOLE, D.; FROST, S. Introducing the new materialisms. In: COOLE, D.; FROST, S. (Eds.). New materialism: ontology, agency & politics. London: Duke University Press, p. 1-43, 2010 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1215/9780822392996-001

.

CSM. Central Saint Martins Website. Available at: http://www.arts.ac.uk/csm/courses/short-courses/fashion-design/experimental-fashion-design-online/. Accessed on: 13th December 2016.

DAVIS, F. Fashion, culture and identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1992. DOI: https://doi.org/10.7208/chicago/9780226167954.001.0001

DUNNE, A.; RABY, F. Design noir. Basel: Birkhäuser, 2001. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350070660

FLETCHER, K. Craft of use. Post growth-fashion. New York: Routledge, 2016. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315647371

______. Slow fashion: an invitation for systems change. In: Fashion Practice The Journal of Design Creative Process & the Fashion Industry, v. 2, n. 2, p. 259-266, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387594

FLETCHER, K.; KLEPP, I. Opening up the wardrobe. A method book. Oslo: Novus Press, 2017.

FRASER, H. CloTHING(s) as conversation. In: Clothing Cultures, v. 1, n. 2, pp. 155-169, 1st March 2014. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/cc.1.2.155_1

GAVER, B.; MARTIN, H. Alternatives: exploring information appliances through conceptual design proposals. In: Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems – CHI ’00, v. 2, n.

, p. 209-216, 2001.

GAVER, W.; BOUCHER, A.; PENNINGTON, S.; WALKER, B. Cultural probes and the value of uncertainty. In: Interactions – Funology, v. 11, n. 5, p. 53-56, September to October, 2004. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/1015530.1015555

GAVER, W.; DUNNE, T.; PANCETI, E. Cultural probes. In: ACM Interactions, n. 6, p. 21-29, 1999. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/291224.291235

GIBSON, J. J. The ecological approach to visual perception. Boston: Houghton- Mifflin, 1979.

HEMMINGS, T.; CRABTREE, A.; RODDEN, T.; CLARKE, K.; ROUNCEFIELD, M. Probing the probes. In: Proceedings of the Participatory Design Conference 2002, edited by T. Binder, J. Gregory, and I. Wagner, p. 40-50, 2002.

HULKKO, S.; MATTELMÄKI, T.; VIRTANEN, K.; KEINONEN, T. Mobile probes. In: Proceedings of NordiCHI04, edited by A. Hyrskykari, p. 43-51, 2004. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/1028014.1028020

HUTCHINSON, H.; MACKAY, W.; WESTERLUND, B.; BEDERSON, B. B.; DRUIN, A.; PLAISANT, C.; BEAUDOUINLAFON, M.; CONVERSY, H.; EVANS, H.; HANSEN, H.; ROUSSEL, N.; EIDERBACK, B.; LINDQUIST, S.; SUNDBLAD, Y. Technology probes: inspiring design for and with families. In: Proceedings of the conference on human factors in computing systems CHI03, p. 17-24. Fort Lauderdale, FL: ACM Press, 2003. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/642611.642616

INGOLD, T. Making. [s.l.]: Routledge, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203559055

KAISER, S. The social psychology of clothing: symbolic appearances in context (2nd ed.). New York: Macmillan Publishing Company, 1990.

KIM, H.; CHOO, H. J.; YOON, N. The motivational drivers of fast fashion avoidance. In: Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, v. 17, n. 2, p. 234-260, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-10-2011-0070

KLEPP, I. G.; BJERCK, M. A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: wardrobe studies. In: International Journal of Social Research Methodology, v. 17, n. 4, p. 373-386, 2014. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/13645579.2012.737148

KUJALA, S.; MIRON-SHATZ, T. Emotions, experiences and usability in real-life mobile phone use. In: Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (CHI’13). New York: ACM, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/2470654.2466135

LASCHKE, M. et al. ‘Annoying, but in a nice way’: an inquiry into the experience of frictional feedback. In: International Journal of Design, v. 9, n. 2, p. 129-140, 2015.

LATOUR, B. Reassembling the social: an introduction to actor-network theory. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2005. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780199256044.001.0001

LUNDGAARD, L.; LARSEN, U. Applying probes as an inspirational research tool for fashion design. In: Nordes 2007, p. 1-7, 2007. DOI: https://doi.org/10.21606/nordes.2007.034

MATTELMÄKI, T. Applying probes – from inspirational notes to collaborative insights. In: CoDesign, v. 1, n.2, p. 83-102, 2015. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/15719880500135821

MICA. Maryland Institute College of Art website. Available at: https://www.mica.edu/Programs_of_Study/Undergraduate_Programs/Fiber/Experimental_Fashion_Studio_Concentration.html. Accessed on:

th December, 2016.

MILLER, D.; KÜCHLER, S. Clothing as material culture. Oxford: Berg, 2005. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/9780857854056

MUGGE, R.; SCHOORMANS, J. P. L. A longitudinal study of product attachment and its determinants. In: Advances in Consumer Research, v. 7, p. 641-647, 2006.

NELSON, H.; STOLTERMAN, E. The design way: intentional change in an unpredictable world. Englewood Cliffs: Educational Technology Publications, 2003.

NIMKULRAT, N. Paperness, expressive material in textile art from an artist’s viewpoint. Helsinki: Aalto University, 2009.

RIGBY, E. Laundry probes. In: FLETCHER, K.; KLEPP, I. (Eds.). Opening up the wardrobe. A methods book. Oslo: Novus Forlag, 2017.

SAMPSON, E. The cleaved garment: the maker, the wearer and the ‘me and not me’ of fashion practice. In: Fashion Theory, 7419, p. 1-20, September 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2017.1366187

______. Worn: footwear, attachment and affective experience. London: The Royal College of Arts, 2016.

SKJOLD, E. The daily selection. Kolding: Designskolen Kolding, 2014.

SPŁAWA-NEYMAN, T. Care making. Practices of gleaning, using and future fashioning. Melbourne: RMIT, 2014.

TIAINEN, M.; KONTTURI, K.; HONGISTO, I. Framing, following, middling: towards methodologies of relational materialities. In: Cultural Studies Review, v. 21, n. 2, 2015. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5130/csr.v21i2.4407

VALLE NORONHA, J. On the agency of clothes: surprise as a tool towards stronger engagements. In: Research Through Design 2017, p. 519-534. Edinburgh, 21-24 March 2017a.

______. Time as a design space: designing surprise in clothing experience and maintenance. In: Annals of the 13o Colóquio de Moda. Bauru: Unesp, 2017b.

______. (Dress (v.): Encorporeamento de movimentos através de modelagem criativa. In: Annals of the 12o Colóquio de Moda. João Pessoa: UFPE, 2016.

VON BUSCH, O. Fashion-able: hacktivism and engaged fashion design. Gothenburg: University of Gothenburg, 2008.

WILDE, D. PKI: crafting critical design. In: The ACM Conference on Designing Interactive Systems (DIS’14), p. 365-374. Vancouver, Canada, June 21-25, 2014.

WILDE, D.; UNDERWOOD, J. Designing towards the unknown: engaging with material and aesthetic uncertainty. In: Informatics 2018, v. 5, n. 1, 1, 2018. doi:10.3390/informatics5010001 http://www.mdpi.com/2227-9709/5/1/1/html. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/informatics5010001

Downloads

Publicado

2018-05-22

Como Citar

NORONHA, J. V.; WILDE, D. O guarda-roupa interferido: tornando visível a agência das roupas. dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda, [S. l.], v. 11, n. 23, p. 197–217, 2018. DOI: 10.26563/dobras.v11i23.718. Disponível em: https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/718. Acesso em: 4 dez. 2024.

Edição

Seção

Artigos