Transition to sustainability in authorial fashion: a perspective from the circular economy
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.i41.1672Keywords:
Authorial Fashion, Circular Economy, Sociotechnical Transition, Multilevel AnalysisAbstract
This article examines the phenomenon of transitioning towards sustainability in artisanal fashion businesses, aiming to understand how circular economy initiatives contribute to the sustainability transition process in the artisanal fashion sector in Curitiba. The qualitative, exploratory, and descriptive multi-case study employs two complementary theoretical approaches: circular economy and socio-technical transition to sustainability from a multi-level perspective (MLP). The results indicate that all studied brands have relevant circular economy initiatives in their processes, such as: sourcing from qualified suppliers, reusing waste materials, utilizing discarded materials, employing artisanal production processes, and raising consumer awareness. Additionally, the main challenges and opportuni-ties for the developmentand growth of artisanal brands were analyzed. The findings also reveal that artisanal fashion companies in Curitiba are contributing to the modification of the current regime, seeking feasibility of changes from financial, business, product, and innovation perspectives towards environmental sustainability, while simultaneously fostering the transition to sustainability in the long term.
Downloads
References
AGÊNCIA CURITIBA DE DESENVOLVIMENTO E INOVAÇÃO. Ag.cwb Agência Curitiba de Desenvolvimento e Inovação, 2019. Página inicial. Disponível em: <http://www.agencia.curitiba.pr.gov.br/>. Acesso em: 10 nov. 2019.
ALTENBURG, T., PEGELS, A. Sustainability-oriented innovation systems – managing the green transformation. Innovation and Development, 2 (1), 5-22, 2012. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/2157930X.2012.664037
AMARAL, M. C.; ZONATTI, W. F., SILVA, K. L., JUNIOR, K., NETO, J. A.; RAMOS, J. B. Reciclagem industrial e reuso têxtil no Brasil: estudo de caso e considerações referentes à economia circular. Gestão & Produção, 25 (3), p. 431-443, 2018. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1590/0104-530x3305
ASSOCIAÇÃO BRASILEIRA DA INDÚSTRIA TÊXTIL E DE CONFECÇÃO (ABIT). Relatório de atividades ABIT 2015. Disponível em: <https://silo.tips/download/relatorio-de-atividades-abit-2015>. Acesso em: 20 abr. 2019.
BARDIN, L. Análise de conteúdo. Lisboa: Edições 70, 2010.
CARSTENS, D. D. S.; CUNHA, S. K. Challenges and challenges and opportunities for the growth of solar photovoltaic energy in Brazil. Energy Policy, 125, p. 396-404, 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.enpol.2018.10.063
FASHION REVOLUTION. Ainda há escravos por trás das roupas. Carta Capital. Disponível em: <https://www.cartacapital.com.br/blogs/fashion-revolution/ainda-ha-escravos-por-tras-das-roupas/>. Acesso em: 10 jul. 2019.
CASOTTI, L. G.; TORRES, V. M. (2011). Moda sustentável e consumidores Osklen. Intercom – Sociedade Brasileira de Estudos Interdisciplinares da Comunicação XVIII Prêmio Expocom – Exposição da Pesquisa Experimental em Comunicação, p. 1-9, 2011. Disponível em: < http://www.intercom.org.br/papers/regionais/sudeste2011/expocom/EX24-0622-1.pdf>. Acesso em: 10 out. 2019.
CADASTRO GERAL DE EMPREGADOS E DESEMPREGADOS (CAGED). Ministério do Trabalho, 2023. Informações do Programa de disseminação das estatísticas do trabalho. Disponível em: <http://pdet.mte.gov.br/novo-caged>. Acesso em: 20 mai. 2023.
CORREA, M. E. Con sello propio: singularidad e innovación en casos de emprendimientos autogestionados de diseño de indumentaria en la ciudad de Buenos Aires. Trabajo y sociedad: sociología del trabajo, estudios culturales, narrativas sociológicas y literárias, 26, p. 23-33, 2016.
ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION. New textiles economy: redesigning fashion’s future. 2018. Disponível em: <https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy>. Acesso em: 21 abr. 2019.
ELZEN, B.; GEELS, F. W.; GREEN, K. System innovation and the transition to sustainability: theory, evidence and policy. Estados Unidos: Edward Elgar Publishing Lda, 2004. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4337/9781845423421
FLETCHER, K. Slow fashion: an invitation for systems change. Fashion Practice, 2 (2), p. 259–266, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387594
FLETCHER, K.; GROSE, L. Moda e sustentabilidade: design para mudança. São Paulo: Editora Senac, 2011.
GARCIA, C.; MIRANDA, A. P. Moda é comunicação. 2 ed. São Paulo: Anhembi Morumbi, 2001.
GEELS, F. W. Technological transitions as evolutionary reconfiguration processes: a multi-level perspective and a case-study. Research Policy, 31 (8-9), p. 1257–1274, 2002. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0048-7333(02)00062-8
GEELS, F. W. Co-evolution of technology and society: the transition in water supply and personal hygiene in the Netherlands (1850–1930) - a case study in multi-level perspective. Technology in Society, 27 (3), p. 363–397, 2005. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.techsoc.2005.04.008
GEELS, F. W. The multi-level perspective on sustainability transitions: responses to seven criticisms. Environmental Innovation and Societal Transitions, 1, p. 24-40, 2011. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.eist.2011.02.002
GEELS, F. W.; SCHOT, J. Typology of sociotechnical transition pathways. Research Policy, 36 (3), p. 399–417, 2007. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.respol.2007.01.003
GHISELLINI, P.; CIALANI, C.; ULGIATI, S. A review on circular economy: The expected transition to a balanced interplay of environmental and economic systems. Journal of Cleaner Production, 114 (7), p. 11-32, 2016. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.09.007
GODOI, C. K.; DE-MELLO, R. B.; DA-SILVA, A. B. Pesquisa qualitativa em estudos organizacionais: paradigmas, estratégias e métodos. São Paulo: Editora Saraiva, 2006.
GRIN, J.; ROTMANS, J.; SCHOT, J. Transition to sustainable development: new directions in the study of long term transformative change. Nova Iorque: Routledege, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203856598
HÖLSGENS, R.; LÜBKE, S.; HASSELKUß, M. The MLP applied to social innovation? In: IST2016 CONFERENCE, 2016, Chania (Grécia).
ISLAM, M. A.; ABBOTT, P.; HAQUE, S.; GOOCH, F. Impact of global clothing relailers’ unfair practices on Bangladeshi suppliers during COVID-19. University of Aberdeen, Transform Trade, 2023. Disponível em: < https://www.abdn.ac.uk/news/documents/Impact_of_Global_Clothing_Retailers_Unfair_Practices_on_Bangladeshi_Suppliers_During_COVID-19.pdf>. Acesso em: 10 mai. 2023. DOI: https://doi.org/10.57064/2164/19814
JUNIOR, F. Maior marca plus size do Brasil perde na Justiça mas não paga trabalhadores escravizados. Repórter Brasil, 18 de jan. de 2022. Disponível em: < https://reporterbrasil.org.br/2022/01/maior-marca-plus-size-do-brasil-perde-na-justica-mas-nao-paga-trabalhadores-escravizados/>. Acesso em 15 de mai. 2023.
JURGILEVICH, A.; BIRGE, T.; KENTALA-LEHTONEN, J.; KORHONEN-KURKI, K.; PIETIKAINEN, J.; SAIKKU, L.; SCHOSLER, H. Transition towards Circular Economy in the Food System. Sustainability, 8 69, 2016. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/su8010069
KEMP, R.; ROTMANS, J. The management of the co-evolution of technical, environmental and social systems. In WEBER M.; HEMMELSKAMP J. (Ed.). Towards Environmental Innovation Systems. Heidelberg: Springer Berlim, 2010.
LOORBACH, D. A. Transition management: new mode of governance for sustainable development. Chicago: International Books, 2007.
MARRÉ, S. El asociativismo en las empresas de diseño de indumentaria de autor en Argentina. Centro de Estudios en Diseño y Comunicación, 48, p. 59-69, 2014.
MCDONOUGH, W.; BRAUNGART, M. Cradle to cradle – remaking the way we make things. Nova Iorque: North Point Press, 2002.
MENEZES, V. D. O.; MAÇANEIRO, M. B.; CUNHA, S. K. Observatório da ecoinovação aspectos teóricos e casos ilustrativos. Curitiba: Editora CRV, 2017.
MON, L. Industrias creativas de diseño de indumentaria de autor: diagnóstico y desafíos a 10 años del surgimiento del fenómeno en argentina. Centro de Estudios en Diseño y Comunicación, 42, p. 19-34, 2012.
ORMAZABAL, M.; SANDOVAL, V. P.; JACA, C. Towards a consensus on the circular economy. Journal of Cleaner Production, 179, p. 605-615, 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.12.224
PREFEITURA DE CURITIBA. Prefeitura inaugura o primeiro Fab Lab público da cidade. Disponível em: <https://www.curitiba.pr.gov.br/noticias/prefeiturainaugura-o-primeiro-fab-lab-publico-da-cidade/49749>. Acesso em: 10 nov. 2019.
RÆBILD, U.; BANG, A. Rethinking the fashion collection as a design strategic tool in a circular economy. The Design Journal, 20 (1), p. 589-599, 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1353007
RITZÉN, S.; SANDSTRÖM, G. Barriers to the circular economy – integration of perspectives and domains. Circular Perspectives on Product/Service-Systems, 64, p. 7-12, 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.procir.2017.03.005
SAFFI, B. Brasília escala humana: upcycling com tecido descartado para a marca Pau Brasília. Monografia (Bacharelado em Desenho Industrial) — Universidade de Brasília, Brasília, p.129. 2015. Disponível em: < https://bdm.unb.br/handle/10483/10969>. Acesso em: 11 jul. 2019.
SEBRAE (2019). Fashion Branding Sebrae. Disponível em: <https://www.sebraepr.com.br/fashion-branding/>. Acesso em: 10 nov. 2019.
SOBREIRA, M. A. S. O estudo de têxteis no Brasil: uma pesquisa bibliométrica na base de dados Scielo. dObras: Revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisa em Moda, vol. 12, n. 25, p. 213-229, 2019. Disponível em: < https://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/articulo?codigo=6974849>. Acesso em 15 mai. 2023. DOI: https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.v11i25.862
SPOSATO, P.; PREKA, R.; CAPPELLARO, F.; CUTAIA, L. Sharing Economy And Circular Economy: How Technology And Collaborative Consumption Innovations Boost Closing The Loop Strategies. Environmental Engineering and Management Journal, 16 (8), p. 1797-1806, 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.30638/eemj.2017.196
TULDER, R.; TILBURG, R.; FRANCKEN, M.; ROSA, A. Managing the transition to a sustainable enterprise: lessons from frontrunner companies. Nova Iorque: Routledge, 2014.
UNIETHOS. Sustentabilidade e competitividade na cadeia da moda. Disponível em: < http://abit-files.abit.org.br/site/links_site/2019/08_agosto/estudo_sustentabilidade_uniethos.pdf>. Acesso em: 20 mai. 2019.
WEETMAN, C. A circular economy handbook for business and supply chains: repair, remake, redesign, rethink. Estados Unidos: KoganPagen, 2017.
YIN, R. K. Estudo de caso: planejamento e métodos (2a ed.). Porto Alegre: Bookman, 2001.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2024 Lívia Antonelli e Silva, Danielle Denes-Santos, Priscila da Paz Vieira
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
The copyrights of the works published in this journal belong to the author, and dObra[s] holds the rights of first publication. Due to their publication in this open access journal, any work here is free to use, with its own attributions, in educational and non-commercial applications.