In the heart of fashion: Thierry’s experience as a fashion designer
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.v11i24.771Keywords:
anthropology, work, capitalism, fashion, visibility.Abstract
What the transformations of the fashion designer’s work can tell us about capitalism? Starting from the testimony of Thierry - fashion designer who worked in the heart of the fashion industry from the 1960s until the 2000s and assisted Karl Lagerfeld for ten years - this paper point out the correlations between the transformations of this profession and the different phases of capitalism. In line with the anthropological approach that aims to rise in general from ethnographic situations, fashion is considered fertile ground to analyze the transformations of the meaning and the nature of work in contemporary capitalism. Particular attention is paid to visibility issues. The material mobilized comes from an ethnography conducted in Paris and Brussels by creative workers in the fashion industry.
Downloads
References
APPADURAI, Arjun. Après le colonialisme : Les conséquences culturelles de la globalisation. Paris : Payot, 2005.
BOIDY, Maxime. Les études visuelles. Saint-Denis : Presses Universitaires Vincennes, 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3917/puv.boid.2017.01
BRIGHENTI, Andrea. Visibility in Social Theory and Social Research. Basingstoke, Hampshire England ; New York : Palgrave Macmillan, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230282056
CUSSET, François ; LABICA, Thierry ; RAULINE, Véronique et al. Imaginaires du néolibéralisme. La Dispute, 2016.
DUMÉNIL, Gérard ; LÉVY, Dominique. The Crisis of Neoliberalism. Harvard University Press, 2011. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4337/9781781001226.00044
FOUCAULT, Michel. Surveiller et punir : naissance de la prison. Paris : Gallimard, 1975.
GODART, Frédéric. Sociologie de la mode. Paris : Editions La Découverte, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3917/dec.godar.2010.01
HEINICH, Nathalie. De la visibilité : Excellence et singularité en régime médiatique. Paris:Gallimard, 2012.
HESMONDHALGH, David ; BAKER, Sarah. « A very complicated version of freedom »: Conditions and experiences of creative labour in three cultural industries. Poetics, v. 38, n 1, p. 4‑20, février 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.poetic.2009.10.001
LIPOVETSKY, Gilles ; SERROY, Jean. L’esthétisation du monde : Vivre à l’âge du capitalisme artiste. Paris : Gallimard, 2013.
MCROBBIE, Angela. Be Creative : Making a Living in the New Culture Industries. Cambridge, UK: Polity Press, 2015.
MENSITIERI, Giulia. « La chance d’être là ». Le travail dans la mode entre glamour et précarité. Paris:EHESS, 2016.
______. « Le plus beau métier du monde ». Dans les coulisses de l’industrie de la mode. Paris Editions La Découverte, 2018.
MORIN, Edgar. Les Stars. Paris : Points, 2015.
VOIROL, Olivier. Présentation. Visibilité et invisibilité : une introduction. Réseaux, v. 129-130, n. 1,2005, pp. 9-36, 2005. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3917/res.129.0009
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
The copyrights of the works published in this journal belong to the author, and dObra[s] holds the rights of first publication. Due to their publication in this open access journal, any work here is free to use, with its own attributions, in educational and non-commercial applications.
