Modelando a identidade: simbolismo vestimentar e negociação cultural na literatura do período Tanzimat no Império Otomano

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DOI:

https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.v18i44.1854

Palavras-chave:

Literatura do Tanzimat, Simbolismo vestimentar, Modernização otomana, Semiótica

Resumo

Este artigo explora o simbolismo da indumentária na literatura da era Tanzimat do Império Otomano. A pesquisa analisa as escolhas de indumentária como dispositivos narrativos em três romances fundamentais do Tanzimat: The Carriage Affair (Araba Sevdası), de Recaizade Mahmut Ekrem, Mister Felâtun and Master Râkım (Felâtun Bey ve Râkım Efendi), de Ahmet Mithat Efendi, e Dandy (Şık), de Hüseyin Rahmi Gürpınar. Com base na estrutura semiótica de Roland Barthes, encaramos a moda como um ato performativo que inscreve mitos culturais no corpo, articulando narrativas de identidade, poder e transformação. Ao analisar o simbolismo da indumentária como uma gramática visual, o estudo emprega uma análise comparativa do caráter dos arquétipos do alafranga e do cavalheiro otomano. Além disso, a pesquisa oferece uma nova interpretação dos romances Tanzimat, combinando o simbolismo da indumentária com as teorias pós-coloniais de Homi Bhabha sobre mimetismo e hibridismo. Apresentamos três conceitos, mimetismo superficial, mimetismo excessivo e modernização equilibrada, simbolizados pelos personagens dos romances. Essa abordagem interdisciplinar une análise literária, contexto histórico, teorias pós-coloniais e estudos de moda.

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Biografia do Autor

Şakir Özüdoğru, Eskisehir Technical University

PhD in Communication Design and Management, Anadolu University, Türkiye. Assistant Professor, Department of Textile and Fashion Design, Faculty of Architecture and Design, Eskisehir Technical University, Türkiye.

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2025-08-01

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ÖZÜDOĞRU, Şakir. Modelando a identidade: simbolismo vestimentar e negociação cultural na literatura do período Tanzimat no Império Otomano. dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda, [S. l.], v. 18, n. 44, p. 143–169, 2025. DOI: 10.26563/dobras.v18i44.1854. Disponível em: https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1854. Acesso em: 3 ago. 2025.

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