Roles of Japanese scripts in Western fashion: Fusion and New Orientalism
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.i38.1597Palavras-chave:
Japanese scripts, New Orientalism, Cultural appreciation, JaponismeResumo
This paper examines the use of Japanese scripts on fashion items. The use of English on fashion items (e.g. t-shirts) has been observed across the globe and examined in the field of sociolinguistics. In recent years, fashion brands such as Gucci, Coach, Adidas, and Nike have printed Japanese scripts on their clothes alongside their original brand names. A UK fashion brand, Superdry, employ Japanese in their brand name and logos. However, the use of languages other than English has not yet been analysed in the fields of sociolinguistics or fashion. The adoption of different cultural norms is often discussed as a form of cultural appropriation. This paper challenges that view by comparing the use of English and Japanese as well as by discussing possible explanations and the roles of Japanese scripts in fashion. It emerges that Japanese scripts are used due to the symbolic, cultural, and linguistic capital that they hold, as well as with a view to enabling brands to express uniqueness. The paper argues that printing Japanese scripts on fashion items is not a simple representation of Japonisme, but rather a form of cultural and linguistic appreciation. It also asserts that the New Orientalism that has been observed in the adaptation of Japanese scripts to fashion has no connotation of otherness. Instead, it represents an active acceptance of the East and the generation of new cultures. Transcultural flows are observed in the field of fashion in the era of globalisation. This paper presents a new perspective on studies on Orientalism and the use of languages and scripts.
Downloads
Referências
ARNAUD, R. Soft Power” is the Opium of Japan. Japan Spotlight, v. September/October, p. 24–25, 2009.
BAMGBOE, A. World Englishes and globalization. World Englishes, v. 20, n. 3, p. 357–363, 2001. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-971X.t01-1-00220
BAUMGARDNER, R. J. The use of English in advertising in Mexican print media. Journal of Creative Communications, v. 3, n. 1, p. 23–48, 2008. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/097325860800300103
BHATIA, T. K. Advertising in rural India: Language, marketing communication, and consumerism. The Journal of Asian Studies, v. 61, n. 1, p. 286–287, 2000.
BHATIA, T. K. Discourse functions and pragmatics of mixing: Advertising across cultures. World Englishes, v. 11, n. 2–3, p. 195–215, 1992. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-971X.1992.tb00064.x
BHATIA, T. K. English in Asian advertising and the teaching of World Englishes. Em: MURATA, Kumiko; JENKINS, Jennifer (org.). Global Englishes in Asian Contexts: Current and Future Debates. London: Palgrave Macmillan UK, 2009. p. 154–171. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230239531_10
BHATIA, T. K. Language mixing in global advertising. Em: THUMBOO, Edwin (ed.). The three circles of English: Language Specialists Talk about the English Language. Singapore: UniPress, 2001. p. 195–215.
BHATIA, T. K. World Englishes in global advertising. Em: KACHRU, Braj B; KACHRU, Yamuna; NELSON, Cecil (org.). The Handbook of World Englishes. Oxford,: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, 2006. p. 601–619. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/b.9781405111850.2006.00037.x
BHATIA, T. K.; RITCHIE, W. C. Bilingualism in the global media and advertising. Em: BHATIA, Tej K; RITCHIE, William C (org.). The Handbook of Bilingualism. Oxford: Blackwell Publishing, 2006. p. 513–546. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/b.9780631227359.2005.00025.x
BOURDIEU, P. Distinction: A social critique of the judgement of taste. Tradução: Richard Nice. London: Routledge, 1984.
BRUMFIT C.; UNION E.-S. English for international communication. 1st eded. Oxford: Pergamon Press, 1982.
CALDWELL, D. Printed t-shirts in the linguistic landscape: A reading from functional linguistics. Linguistic Landscape, v. 3, n. 2, p. 122–148, 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1075/ll.3.2.02cal
CENTRAL INTELLIGENCE AGENCY. The world factbook: Japan. 2017. Disponível em: https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ja.html.
CHEN, C. W.-Y. The mixing of English in magazine advertisements in Taiwan. World Englishes, v. 25, n. 3–4, p. 467–478, 2006. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-971X.2006.00467.x
CHRISTENSEN, A. R. Cool Japan, Soft Power. Global Asia, v. 6, n. 1, p. 77–81, 2011.
COLUZZI, P. The linguistic landscape of Brunei. World Englishes, v. 35, p. 497–508, 2016. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/weng.12221
COOK, G. The discourse of advertising. London: Routledge, 1992.
CRYSTAL, D. English as a global language, Second edition. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2012.
CRYSTAL, D. English worldwide. Em: DENISON, David; HOGG, Richard (ed.). A History of the English Language. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2006. p. 420–439. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511791154.010
DAULTON F. E. Japan’s built-in lexicon of English-based loanwords. Clevedon: Multilingual Matters, 2008. DOI: https://doi.org/10.21832/9781847690319
DICKINSON, J. A. Introduction: Language ideologies and writing systems. Pragmatics, v. 25, n. 4, p. 507–516, 2015. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1075/prag.25.4.01int
DIMOVA, S. English in Macedonian television commercials. World Englishes, v. 31, n. 1, p. 15–29, 2012. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-971X.2011.01731.x
DOUGILL, J. Japan and English as an alien language. English Today, v. 24, n. 1, p. 18–22, 2008. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/S0266078408000059
ETHNOLOGUE. Japanese. 2022. Disponível em: https://www.ethnologue.com/language/jpn. Acesso em: 21 nov. 2022.
FASHION GONE ROGUE. Adidas Originals Typo Monogram 2014 Collection. 2014. Disponível em: https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/adidas-originals-typo-monogram-2014/. Acesso em: 24 nov. 2022.
FRIEDRICH, P. English in advertising in Brazil. World Englishes, v. 38, n. 3, p. 552–560, 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/weng.12421
GAO, L. Bilinguals’ creativity in the use of English in China’s advertising. Em: COHEN, James; MCALISTER, Kara T; ROLSTAD, Kellie; MACSWAN, Jeff (org.). Proceedings of the 4thInternational Symposium on Bilingualism. Somervilee, MA: Casadilla Press, 2005. p. 827–837.
GERRITSEN, M.; KORZILIUS, H.; MEURS, F. van; GIJSBERS, I. English in Dutch commercials: Not understood and not appreciated. Journal of Advertising Research, v. 40, n. 4, p. 17–31, 2000. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2501/JAR-40-4-17-31
GERRITSEN, M.; NICKERSON, C.; VAN HOOFT, A.; VAN MEURS, F.; NEDERSTIGT, U.; STARREN, M.; CRIJNS, R. English in product advertisements in Belgium, France, Germany, the Netherlands and Spain. World Englishes, v. 26, n. 3, p. 291–315, 2007a. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-971X.2007.00510.x
GERRITSEN, M.; NICKERSON, C.; BRANDT, C. V. D.; CRIJNS, R.; DOMINGUEZ, N.; MEURS, F. van; NEDERSTIGT, U. English in print adversiting in Germany, Spain and the Netherlands: Frequency of occurrence, comprehensibility and the effect on corporrate image. Em: GARZONE, Giuliana; ILIE, Cornelia (org.). The Use of English in Institutional and Business Settings: An Intercultrual Perspective. Berlin: Peter Lang, 2007b. p. 79–98.
GOLDMAN, R. Reading ads socially. London: Routledge, 1992. 1992.
GRADDOL, D. The future of English? United Kingdom: British Council, 1997.
HAARMANN, H. The role of ethnocultural stereotypes and foreign languages in Japanese commercials. International Journal of the Sociology of Language, v. 1984, n. 50, p. 101–121, 1984. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/ijsl.1984.50.101
HAKUHODO. Report on Image of Products Made in Japan in 14 Asian Cities. 2016. Global HABIT. Disponível em: https://www.hakuhodo.co.jp/news/newsrelease/26100/. Acesso em: 23 nov. 2022.
HAMDAN, J. M.; HATAB, W. a. A. English in the Jordanian context. World Englishes, v. 28, n. 3, p. 394–405, 2009. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-971X.2009.01599.x
HSU, J.-L. Glocalization and English mixing in advertising in Taiwan: Its discourse domains, linguistic patterns, cultural constraints, localized creativity, and socio-psychological effects. Journal of Creative Communications, v. 3, n. 2, p. 155–183, 2008. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/097325860800300203
HSU, J.-L. English mixing in advertising in Taiwan: A study of English-literate readers’ attitudes. Concentric: Studies in Linguistics, v. 39, n. 1, p. 91–122, 2013.
INOUE, F. Market value of languages in Japan: Nihonni okeru gengono shijokachi. Japanese Linguistics, The National Language Research Institute, n. 2, p. 40–61, 1997.
INTERNATIONAL MONETARY FUND. Report for Selected Countries and Subjects. 2022. Disponível em: https://www.imf.org/en/Publications/WEO/weo-database/2022/October/weo-report. Acesso em: 18 nov. 2022.
JAPAN NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANIZATION. JNTO deta handobukku 2018 (Sekai 20 shijo ) [JNTO data handbook of tourists to Japan 2018 (20 markets in the world)]. , 2018. Disponível em: https://www.jnto.go.jp/jpn/statistics/jnto_databook_2018.pdf.
JAPAN NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANIZATION. Press Releases: JAPAN launches the visit Japan campaign !!. , 2003. Disponível em: https://us.jnto.go.jp/press/press_item.php?prid=11&past=1.
JAPAN NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANIZATION. Statistical information (number of visitors to Japan). , 2016. Disponível em: http://www.jnto.go.jp/jpn/statistics/visitor_trends/index.html.
JAPAN TOURISM AGENCY. Results of the consumption trends of international visitors to Japan survey – 2018 annual report. , 2018. Disponível em: http://www.mlit.go.jp/common/001230775.pdf.
JAPANESE OLYMPIC COMMITTEE. History | JOC - Japanese Olympic Committee. 2022. Disponível em: https://www.joc.or.jp/english/historyjapan/. Acesso em: 21 nov. 2022.
KACHRU, B. B. The sacred cows of English. English Today, v. 4, n. 4, p. 3–8, 1988. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/S0266078400000973
KATHPALIA, S. S.; WEE ONG, K. K. The use of code-mixing in Indian billboard advertising. World Englishes, v. 34, n. 4, p. 557–575, 2015. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/weng.12159
KRISHNASAMY, K. English in Tamil: the language of advertising. English Today, v. 91/92, n. 23, p. 40–49, 2007. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/S0266078407003094
LANZA, E.; WOLDEMARIAM, H. Indexing modernity: English and branding in the linguistic landscape of Addis Ababa. International Journal of Bilingualism, v. 18, n. 5, p. 491–506, 2014. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1367006913484204
LEBLANC, P. What is the G7, and what power does it hold? | CNN Politics What is the G7, and what power does it hold? 2021. Disponível em: https://www.cnn.com/2021/06/11/politics/g7-summit-explainer/index.html. Acesso em: 18 nov. 2022.
LEE, J. S. Linguistic constructions of modernity: English mixing in Korean television commercials. Language in Society, v. 35, n. 1, p. 59–91, 2006. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/S0047404506060039
LEHNERT, G.; MENTGES, G. Fusion Fashion: Culture beyond Orientalism and Occidentalism. Em: LEHNERT, Gertrud; MENTGES, Gabriele (ed.). Fusion Fashion. Frankfurt am Main: Peter Lang GmbH, Internationaler Verlag der Wissenschaften, 2013. p. 7–13. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3726/978-3-653-03343-4
LEUNG, C.-H. An empirical study on code mixing in print advertisements in Hong Kong. Asian Journal of Marketing, v. 4, n. 2, p. 49–61, 2010. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3923/ajm.2010.49.61
MANAN, S. A.; DAVID, M. K.; DUMANIG, F. P.; CHANNA, L. A. The glocalization of English in the Pakistan linguistic landscape. World Englishes, v. 36, n. 4, p. 645–665, 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/weng.12213
MARTIN, E. “Frenglish” for sale: Multilingual discourses for addressing today’s global consumer. World Englishes, v. 26, n. 2, p. 170–190, 2007. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-971X.2007.00500.x
MARTIN, E. Language-Mixing in French Print Advertising. Journal of Creative Communications, v. 3, n. 1, p. 49–76, 2008. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/097325860800300104
MARTIN, E. Mixing English in French advertising. World Englishes, v. 21, n. 3, p. 375–402, 2002. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-971X.00256
MARTINEZ, F. English in advertising in Colombia. World Englishes, v. 34, n. 4, p. 600–619, 2015. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/weng.12163
ONO, A. Japonisme in Britain: Whistler, Menpes, Henry, Hornel and nineteenth-century Japan. London: Routledge, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315020679
OSTLER, N. Empires of the word: A language history of the world. New York: Harper Collins Publishers, 2010.
PEREZ, L. G. The history of Japan. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press, 1998.
PÉTERY, D. English in Hungarian advertising. World Englishes, v. 30, n. 1, p. 21–40, 2011. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-971X.2010.01685.x
PHAM, M.-H. T. China: Through the looking glass: Race, property, and the possessive investment in white feelings. Em: LEE, S. Heijin; MOON, Christina H; TU, Thuy Linh Nguyen (ed.). Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia. New York: New York University Press, 2019. p. 41–68. DOI: https://doi.org/10.18574/nyu/9781479892150.003.0003
PHELPS, N. Gucci Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear Collection. 2014. Disponível em: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/gucci. Acesso em: 24 nov. 2022.
PILLER, I. Advertising as a site of langauge contact. Annual Review of Applied Linguistics, v. 23, p. 170–183, 2003. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/S0267190503000254
PINEDA-KIM, D. K-Pop Style: Fashion, Skin-Care, Make-Up, Lifestyle, and More. Seoul: Racehorse, 2019.
RIVLINA, A. Global English-related Digraphia and Roman-Cyrillic Biscriptal Practices. Procedia - Social and Behavioral Sciences, v. 236, p. 207–212, 2016. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sbspro.2016.12.006
SAID, E. W. Orientalism: Western Conceptions of the Orient. New-York: Pantheon Books, 1978.
SAMSON, S.; KARTHIGA, D. S. V. English Language A Vogue In The Fashion Industry. Clinical Medicine, v. 07, n. 08, p. 5, 2020.
SEATON, P. “Shampoo for extra damage”: Making sense of Japanized English. Japan Forum, v. 13, n. 2, p. 233–247, 2001. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/09555800120081411
SIMONS, G. F.; FENNIG, C. D. Ethnologue: Languages of the world, (12th ed.). Dallas, Texas: SIL International, 2017.
SINGER, C. Carven Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear Collection. 2014. Disponível em: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/carven. Acesso em: 24 nov. 2022.
SUPERDRY. About us. 2019a. Disponível em: https://www.superdry.com/component/content/article/823. Acesso em: 26 nov. 2022.
SUPERDRY. Sustainability at Superdry | Superdry Careers. 2019b. Disponível em: https://careers.superdry.com/about-us/sustainability. Acesso em: 26 nov. 2022.
TAKASHI, K. English elements in Japanese advertising. English Today, v. 6, n. 2, p. 45–46, 1990. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/S0266078400004752
TAKASHI, K. Language and desired identity in contemporary Japan. Journal of Asian Pacific Communication, v. 3, n. 1, p. 133–44, 1992.
TAN, S. X.-W.; TAN, Y.-Y. Examining the functions and identities associated with English and Korean in South Korea: a linguistic landscape study. Asian Englishes, v. 17, n. 1, p. 59, 2015. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/13488678.2015.999406
THE JAPAN FOUNDATION. Survey report on Japanese-language education abroad 2018. Tokyo: 2020.
TRAVEL VOICE. Sekaino kaigai ryokoshaga 13okunin toppade kako saiko, shohigakude attoteki toppuwa chugoku, mokutekichiwa furansuga ichiini – UNWTO sekai ryoko tokei 2017 [The number of international travellers in the world reached a record high with 1.3 billion people. The largest number of spenders were Chinese. The most popular destination was France. Statistics on international travel, UNWTO 2017]. 2018. Disponível em: https://www.travelvoice.jp/20180918-117512. Acesso em: 20 fev. 2022.
UNITED NATIONS EDUCATIONAL, SCIENTIFIC AND CULTURAL ORGANIZATION. Washoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese, notably for the celebration of New Year - intangible heritage - Culture Sector - UNESCO. 2013. Disponível em: https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/washoku-traditional-dietary-cultures-of-the-japanese-notably-for-the-celebration-of-new-year-00869. Acesso em: 20 fev. 2022.
USTINOVA, I. P. English and emerging advertising in Russia. World Englishes, v. 25, n. 2, p. 267–277, 2006. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0083-2919.2006.00464.x
VETTOREL, P. English in Italian advertising. World Englishes, v. 32, n. 2, p. 261–278, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/weng.12023
Downloads
Publicado
Como Citar
Edição
Secção
Licença
Direitos de Autor (c) 2023 Takako Kawabata
Este trabalho encontra-se publicado com a Licença Internacional Creative Commons Atribuição-NãoComercial-CompartilhaIgual 4.0.
Direitos Autorais para artigos publicados nesta revista são do autor, com direitos de primeira publicação para a revista. Em virtude de aparecerem nesta revista de acesso público, os artigos são de uso gratuito, com atribuições próprias, em aplicações educacionais e não-comerciais
