Call for papers, reviews and interviews for the Journal's free-themed continuous publication
Issue 52:
Image and Identity Consulting
Organizers:
Dra. Josenilde S. Souza – Centro Universitário Belas Artes
Dra. Maria Alice Ximenez – Faculdade Estadual de Americana (FATEC)
Deadline for submission: March 31, 2027
Publication due to December 2027
Every day, we perform a seemingly ordinary ritual when choosing clothes from our wardrobe to put together our appearance. This practice involves coordinating garments, color combinations, accessories, and eyewear; carefully styling hair and applying makeup in front of the mirror; and selecting perfumes, sunscreen, and cosmetics. We beautify ourselves to go out and present ourselves to others—whether at work, at social events, or in situations of public and private exposure. These repeated choices, far from being neutral or merely functional, constitute a visual grammar of image consulting and visagism, capable of translating identities, communicating values, and expressing symbolic and cultural positions in the social world.
Fashion, understood as a dynamic cultural phenomenon, is constantly renewed through trends driven by the consumer market and disseminated through fashion shows, specialized magazines, digital media, and everyday street practices. However, neither fashion nor trends, in isolation, are sufficient to guide individuals on how to dress or how to experience their own bodies through clothing. Beyond the consumption of items available on racks and in shop windows, it becomes essential to understand the dimensions of being and appearing, as well as the relationships between body, subjectivity, and representation.
Recognizing body proportions, height, lines, and volumes contributes to more conscious choices in design and fit, capable of enhancing the body and increasing both physical and symbolic comfort. In this sense, fashion ceases to be merely a system of trends and begins to operate as a field of mediation between identity, desire, and social recognition. Simply adhering to hegemonic images conveyed by social media and marketing discourses proves insufficient to address the complex relationship that individuals establish with the clothes they wear and the image they project.
It is in this context that the image consultant emerges as a professional called upon to co-create and co-guide the visual identity of others, developing narratives aimed at strengthening reputation and building an appearance consistent with values, desires, and objectives, both personally and professionally. However, during the COVID-19 pandemic, there was an intensification of the overlap between the public and private spheres, as individuals began to carry out their professional activities in domestic spaces due to the social isolation established between 2020 and 2021. That scenario produced profound impacts on the social, cultural, political, and economic dimensions of contemporary life, redefining practices, habits, and ways of presenting oneself.
In parallel, the growth of digital platforms and e-commerce has promoted significant transformations in the field of image consulting. Faced with this new context, professionals in the area have adapted their practices for remote services, using online platforms, applications, and, more recently, technologies based on artificial intelligence. Thus, image consulting has ceased to be a strictly elitist service restricted to a small audience, moving toward a logic similar to prêt-à-porter: more accessible, flexible, and widespread among different consumer profiles.
The dossier “Image and Identity Consulting” proposes a critical understanding of this phenomenon, which is reshaping the fashion consumption system by shifting the focus from the product to the experience. Its objective is to broaden the boundaries of clothing beyond hegemonic standards, fostering debates on diversity, decoloniality, inclusion, self-esteem, belonging, and the recognition of the individual in contemporary society.
By connecting fields such as semiotics, anthropology, fashion, communication, design, psychology, and related areas that engage with image consulting, this dossier welcomes contributions in various formats and is open to submissions of:
- Original and unpublished articles that promote critical analysis of the Image Consulting market, its modes of production, its thought processes, and its ethical, aesthetic, and symbolic implications.
- Original translations into Portuguese of classic or contemporary texts that directly address the topic of image consulting.
- Critical reviews of recent works that engage with the field of Image Consulting and beauty.
- National and international interviews with researchers, professionals, or agents whose trajectories and reflections engage with the theme proposed by this dossier.
Interdisciplinary contributions from different fields of knowledge that use consistent theoretical frameworks to reflect on issues related to the creation, market, circulation, consumption, and symbolic and material representation of Image Consulting and Visagism will be welcome.
This field of study contributes to the debate on the limits and potential of image, thus recognizing the image consultant not only as an agent, but also as a subject affected and shaped by social, affective, and media dynamics. “Image consulting is globally grounded in the purpose of enhancing or highlighting the aesthetic qualities of the individual, whether in a specific environment or different environments. Image consulting is not a professional branch based solely on fashion changes and trends, but on the expertise in evaluating a person's discursive image to place that image in discursive relation with people and environments” (Souza, 2024, p. 13). In short, this area points to the urgency of more pluralistic, ethical, and integrative approaches in the training and practice of professionals, expanding the field of image consulting as a space for listening, constructing narratives, and recognizing contemporary aesthetic diversity.
Finally, the Dossier aims to elucidate how Image Consulting is constituted as a field of research, symbolic authority, and professional legitimation, considering the intersections of gender, ancestry, diversity, aesthetics, digital culture, and the market.
REFERENCES
AIRES, A. De GORDA a PLUS SIZE: A moda do tamanho Grande. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores Editora, 2019.
AGAMBEN, G. O uso dos corpos. Homo Sacer, IV, 2. Trad. Selvino J. Assmann. São Paulo: Boitempo, 2017.
ARAÚJO, L. Livro do cabelo. São Paulo: Leya, 2012.
BACCEGA, M. A. O estereótipo e as diversidades. Comunicação & Educação, São Paulo, 13: 7 a 14, set./dez., 1998.
BARTHES, R. Inéditos, vol. 3: Imagem e moda. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 2005.
BAUMAN, Z. Tempos líquidos. Trad. Carlos Alberto Medeiros. Rio de Janeiro: Jorge Zahar Editora, 2007.
BOURDIEU, P. A distinção: crítica social do julgamento. Porto Alegre: Editora Zouk, 2011.
CASTILHO, K. Moda e linguagem. São Paulo: Editora Anhembi Morumbi. 2009.
CIETTA, E. A economia da moda: porque hoje um bom modelo de negócios vale mais do que uma boa coleção. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2017.
DJEAN, J. A essência do estilo. Rio de Janeiro: Civilização Brasileira, 2010.
OLIVEIRA, A. C. (Org.). Do sensível ao inteligível: duas décadas de construção de sentido. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2014.
OLIVEIRA. A. C. Semiótica plástica. São Paulo: Hacker, 2004.
FEATHERSTONE, M. The Body in Consumer Culture. Theory, culture & society. London: Sage Jounals, 2001. Disponível em https://bit.ly/3LBqEvm. Acesso em: 26 mar. 2022.
FLOCH, J-M. Identités visuelles. Formes sémiotiques. Presses Universitaires de France, 1995.
FLÜGEL, J. C. A psicologia das roupas. Trad. Antônio Ennes Cardoso. São Paulo: Editora Mestre Jou, 1966.
HALL, S. A identidade cultural na pós-modernidade. Trad. Tomaz Tadeu da Silva e Guacira Lopes Louro. 12ed. Rio de Janeiro: Lamparina, 2019.
HAN, B.-C. A expulsão do outro: sociedade, percepção e comunicação hoje. Trad. Lucas Machado. Petrópolis: Vozes, 2022.
ITTEN, J. The elements of color. Treatise on the color system of Johannes Itten. Based on His Book The Art of Color. John Wiley & Sons, Inc.: New York, 1970.
JACKSON, C. Color me beautiful. Washington: Ballantine, 1987.
MATHIS, C. M.; CONNOR, H. V. The triumph of individual styles: A guide to dressing your body, your beauty, yourself. New York: Fairchild Publications, Inc., 1993.
MERLEAU-PONTY, M. Fenomenologia da percepção. Trad. Carlos Alberto Ribeiro de Moura. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 2011.
MICHEL M. No fundo das aparências. São Paulo: Vozes, 2010.
MOTTA, E. O lugar maldito da aparência. Crônicas de moda. São Paulo: Editora Estação das Letras e Cores, 2013.
SOUZA, J. Gramática da Consultoria de Imagem. São Paulo: Estações das Letras, 2024.
LIPOVETSKY, G. O império do efêmero: a moda e seu destino nas sociedades modernas. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, 1989.
PARSONS, A. Style source: The power of the seven universal tyles. Universal Styles. Los Gatos: Editora, 2008.
PASTOUREAU, M. Dicionário das cores do nosso tempo. Lisboa: Editorial Estampa, 1997.
PRECIADO, P. B. Testo yonqui: sexo, drogas y biopolítica. Buenos Aires: Paidós, 2014.
SANT’ANNA, D. B. de. É possível realizar uma história do corpo? In: SOARES, C. (Org.). Corpo e história. 3ed. Campinas: Autores Associados, 2006.
RANCIÈRE, J. O destino das imagens. Rio de Janeiro: Contraponto, 2012.
ROCHE, D. A cultura das aparências. São Paulo: Editora SENAC, 2007.
SIMMEL, G. Filosofia da moda e outros escritos. Lisboa: Edições Texto & Grafia, 2008.
VIGARELLO, G. História da beleza: o corpo e a arte de se embelezar do Renascimento aos dias de hoje. Rio de Janeiro: Ediouro, 2006.
VITA, A. C. R. História da maquiagem, da cosmética e do penteado: em busca da perfeição. São Paulo: Anhembi Morumbi, 2008.
WEISS, A. A bíblia da consultoria: métodos e técnicas para montar e expandir um negócio de consultoria. São Paulo: Autêntica Business, 2017.
WOLF, N. O mito da beleza: como as imagens de beleza são usadas contra as mulheres. Trad. Waldéa Barcellos. Rio de Janeiro: Ed. Rosa dos Tempos, 1992.
XIMENES, M. A. Moda e Arte no redesenho do corpo feminino do século XIX. 2ª. ed. São Paulo Editora Estação das Letras e Cores, 2011.
Issue 51:
Terminology and heritage of clothing in the Portuguese language
Organizers:
Dra. Susana Duarte Martins (CLUNL – Centro de Linguística da Universidade Nova de Lisboa, NOVA FCSH – Faculdade de Ciências Sociais e Humanas da Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Portugal)
Dra. Maria Cristina Volpi (Escola de Belas Artes – Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Brasil)
Dra. Carla Alferes Pinto (CHAM - Centro de Humanidades, FCSH, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa e Departamento de História, FCSH, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, Portugal)
Deadline for submission: March 31, 2027
Publication due to December 2027
The study of the terminology, history, and cultures of clothing and fashion has gained ground in recent decades, proving to be one of the most stimulating fields of academic work, both multi- and transdisciplinary.
Clothing plays an important role as a ‘figurative duplication of the social order’ (Roche, 2007), reflecting social and political changes and cultural values, while also serving as a powerful tool for self-expression, community building, or challenging norms. This allows the different parties involved in the fashion creation process to create meaning and promote global connections through heritage and storytelling (Jones & Stallybrass, 2000; Welch, 2017; Matteucci, 2019).
Terminology, understood as a multidisciplinary science dedicated to the study of terms, concepts, and their relationships, considers objects, concepts, designations, and definitions to be fundamental to its practices (ISO 704, 2022). This approach enables the study of terms in specialist fields, allowing observation of the evolution of object designations and their definitions over time, as well as the disappearance of terms designating obsolete concepts in favor of new terms responding to emerging realities. Thus, the dynamism of fashion trends has always accompanied–and continues to accompany–its terminology across past, present, and future.
Despite more recent efforts–such as the publication of the Portuguese version of the International Council of Museums (ICOM) Vocabulary of Basic Terms for the Cataloguing of Costumes (VBT) (Volpi & Duarte Martins, 2025) and the international colloquium ‘What’s costume got to do with terms? Terminology and clothing heritage in the Portuguese language’ (NOVA University of Lisbon, 7-8 April 2026)–the reference bibliography on clothing terminology in Portuguese, particularly dictionaries and encyclopedias, consists mainly of translations of works by foreign-language authors. This problem, recognized by fashion historians in their pioneering works (e.g. Boucher, 2012), is particularly acute in the case of Portuguese, as the scarcity of textual and visual sources is more noticeable and becomes more severe the further back in time one goes (Pinto, Garcia & Fragoso, 2023).
Issues such as Eurocentrism vs. multiculturalism, sexual and gender identity, the relationship between fashion and other cultural manifestations, fashion theories, material and clothing culture, the fashion system–from its design and manufacture to marketing and representation (Steele, 2005)–and the availability of specialized vocabulary with definitions geared towards the field of fashion, contributing to the creation of neologisms (Picken, 2013), emerge in term usage in clothing and fashion studies, as well as in selecting terms for indexing garments and accessories in museum collections. The visual characterization of clothing and footwear (whether through painting, sculpture, drawing, or other forms of visual representation) is particularly important in research on clothing history and heritage (Hollander, 1978; Palla, 1999; Malcolm-Davies & Mikhaila, 2006; Melchior & Svensson, 2014; Rublack & Hayward, 2015; Cantista & Delille, 2022), serving as a complement to definitions. These works identify cases of multiple terms designating the same garment, polysemy, spelling variants, and also highlight variation in term meanings, and changes in garment designations across historical periods (Passot, 2019).
In this sense, this thematic dossier aims to open discussion on the historical and linguistic issues underpinning clothing terminology in the Portuguese-speaking world, such as:
- The role of clothing terminology in constructing a language's lexicon and culture through literature and the arts;
- Clothing’s relationship with museum collections and the need for terminology to properly catalogue garments and accessories from different historical periods;
- The contributions of terminology and glossaries to the fashion industry and sustainable development goals, professional training, translation, and language teaching for specific purposes;
- The establishment and stabilization of fashion and clothing terminology to facilitate specialist knowledge transfer;
- Good practices for terminology management in clothing;
- Methodologies for validating terms and their equivalents within mediation strategies among specialists, translators, and linguists;
- The importance of images in defining garments;
- Neologisms and linguistic borrowings in fashion terminology, from past to present;
- The recognition of clothing heritage as an emerging field connecting academia and industry.
References
BOUCHER, François. History of Western Clothing: From Its Origins to the Present Day. Translated by André Telles. 1st reprint. São Paulo: Cosac & Naify, 2012. [1965, 1983, 1996, 2008].
CANTISTA, Isabel; DELILLE, Damien (Eds.). Fashion heritage: narrative and knowledge creation. Cham, Switzerland: Palgrave Macmillan, 2022.
HOLLANDER, Anne. Seeing through clothes. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1978.
INTERNATIONAL ORGANISATION FOR STANDARDISATION. ISO 704:2022 – Terminology work – Principles and methods. Geneva: International Organisation for Standardisation, 2022. Available at: https://www.iso.org/standard/79077.html. Accessed on: 31 Jan. 2026.
JONES, Ann Rosalind; STALLYBRASS, Peter. Renaissance clothing and the materials of memory. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000.
MALCOLM-DAVIES, Jane; MIKHAILA, Ninya. The Tudor tailor: reconstructing sixteenth-century dress. London: Batsford, 2006.
MATTEUCCI, Giovanni. Fashion. In: International Lexicon of Aesthetics. Autumn Edition, 2019. Available at: https://lexicon.mimesisjournals.com/archive/2019/autumn/Fashion.pdf. DOI: 10.7413/18258630066. Accessed on: 31 Jan. 2026.
MELCHIOR, Marie Riegels & SVENSSON, Birgitta. Fashion and Museums. Theory and Practice. London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2014.
PALLA, Maria José. Costume and painting: Grão Vasco and the altarpiece of the Cathedral of Viseu. Lisbon: Editorial Estampa, 1999.
PASSOT, Sébastien. “Are you sure this is what he means?” Considerations on dress terminology in French sources and their subsequent translation. In: KAMMELL, Frank Mathias; PIETSCH, Johannes (ed.). Structuring fashion: foundation garments through history. Munich: Bayerisches Nationalmuseum; Himer Verlag GmbH, 2019. p. 63–71.
PICKEN, Mary Brooks. A dictionary of costume and fashion: historic and modern. New York: Dover Publications, 2013.
PINTO, Carla Alferes; GARCIA, Ana Catarina; FRAGOSO, Íris. From the sea to the land: an archaeological study of Iberian footwear during the early modern period. Heritage, v. 6, n. 2, p. 867–890, 2023. DOI: 10.3390/heritage6020048. Available at: https://www.mdpi.com/2571-9408/6/2/48. Accessed on: 31 Jan. 2026.
ROCHE, Daniel. The Culture of Appearances: A History of Clothing (17th-18th Centuries). Translation by Assef Kfouri. São Paulo: Editora Senac São Paulo, 2007.
RUBLACK, Ulinka; HAYWARD, Maria. The first book of fashion: the books of clothes of Matthäus & Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg. London: Bloomsbury, 2015.
STEELE, Valerie (Ed.). Encyclopedia of clothing and fashion. v. 1. Detroit: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 2005.
VOLPI, Maria Cristina; DUARTE MARTINS, Susana (Coords.). Women’s garments. Men’s garments. Children’s garments. In: The Vocabulary of Basic Terms for the Cataloguing of Costume – Portuguese Version. ICOM – International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume, 2025. Available at: https://costume.mini.icom.museum/publications-2/terminology/. Accessed on: 31 Jan. 2026.
WELCH, Evelyn (Ed.). Fashioning the early modern: dress, textiles, and innovation in Europe, 1500-1800. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2017.
Issue 50:
Dossier dObra[s]: an overview of the research and studies about fashion in Brazil
Organizers:
Dra. Valéria Faria dos Santos Tessari – Universidade Federal do Paraná (UFPR)
Dr. Henrique Grimaldi Figueredo – Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora (UFJF)
Dr. Felipe Goebel - Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro (UFRJ)
Deadline for submission: September 30, 2026
Publication due to August, 2027
A long way has been charted since the first fashion studies faced resistance within the brazilian academic milieu. Recognition has been conquered among research and investigative topics deemed worthy of being taken seriously in the broader field of the Humanities, expanding from the Arts and Letters to History and the Social Sciences. Undergraduate and graduate programs have been created, along wih research groups, academic events and specific publications about the phenomenon of fashion, apperances and dress; in sum, about the dressed body and their cultural and social modalities. Amongst the brazilian publications, the longest running is the journal dObra[s], which in 2027 will turn twenty, reaching its fiftieth issue.
To celebrate this trajectory we invite researchers with doctoral/PhD degrees to submit papers to the special dossier “dObra[s] 50: an overview of the research and studies about fashion in Brazil”. The actual proposal intends to compile in our journal a survey of research excellence that have made and continues to make the academic field about fashion, and to register the most relevant studies that build knowledge in fashion and related themes in and about Brazil, from a critical reflection perspective.
We will welcome papers that costitute trajectories, assessments, and reviews about the fashion researches from Humanites and Social Sciences’ perspectives. Thus, studies about fashion and appareances in its multiple relations with History, Sociology, Anthropology, Philosophy, Communications Studies, memory, emotions, arts, press modalities, sustainability, sex and gender, sexualities, ethnicities, class, consumption, the production of the bodies and digital media. In this sense, we will appreciate:
- Historical, social, and cultural trajectories about the academic knowledge on, about and from fashion, produced in the recent decades in and about Brazil;
- Surveys about the construction of scientific knowledge on fashion that map advances in the field, the state-of-the-art, and research overviews;
- Critical reviews and expanded updates of fundamental studies previously published in earlier issues of dObra[s] that have become reference works for discussing new concepts, theories, or important field study methods.
This dossier is therefore commemorative and seeks to celebrate and acknowledge the work carried out by researchers over the past decades, which at the same time contributed to the consolidation of fashion studies in Brazil. Thus, this call for submissions is directed to senior scholars holding doctoral/PhD degree, with at least ten years of research production in their respective areas of specialization.
References
ACOM, Ana Carolina. O ser e a moda: a metafisica do vestir. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2023.
ANDRADE, Rita Morais de; KARAJÁ, Tuinaki Koixaru; KARAJÁ, Waxiaki; CALAÇA, Indyanelle Marçal Garcia Di. Dossiê Vestires plurais dos povos originários. dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda, n. 40, 2024.
BERLIM, Lilyan. Moda e sustentabilidade: uma reflexão necessária. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2014.
BONADIO, Maria Claudia; DA SILVA, Elisabeth Murilho. (orgs.) História e historiografia da moda. São Paulo: Alameda Editorial, 2024.
BONADIO, Maria Claudia. Moda e sociabilidade: mulheres e consumo na São Paulo dos anos 1920. São Paulo: Editora Senac SP, 2007.
BONADIO Maria Claudia; MARINHO, Maria Gabriela; WAJNMAN, Solange. Dossiê Moda e Conhecimento: interfaces com as Ciências Humanas e a Comunicação. Iara – Revista de Moda, Cultura e Arte. São Paulo, v.3, n° 3, dez. 2010.
BONADIO, Maria Claudia; MATTOS, Maria de Fátima da S. C. G. de (org.). História e cultura de moda. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2011.
BUENO, Maria Lucia; CRANE, Diana. (Orgs.). Ensaios sobre moda, arte e globalização cultural. São Paulo: Senac, 2001.
BUENO, Maria Lucia; CRANE, Diana (Orgs.). Dossiê Moda e Teoria Social, Iara - Revista de Moda, Cultura e Arte. São Paulo, v.1, n°1, 2008.
CIDREIRA, Renata Pitombo. Os sentidos da moda. São Paulo: Annablume, 2005.
CIDREIRA, Renata Pitombo. Moda e crítica: prazer, julgamento e avaliação. Salvador: EDUFBA, 2022.
MATTOS, Maria de Fátima da Silva Costa Garcia de. (Org.). Pesquisa e formação em moda. São Paulo: Abepem/Estação das Letras e Cores, 2015.
MELLO E SOUZA, Gilda. O espírito das roupas: a moda no século XIX. São Paulo: Cia. das Letras, 1987.
MIRANDA, Ana Paula de. Consumo de moda: a relação pessoa-objeto. 2a ed. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2019.
OLIVEIRA, Ana Claudia Mei Alves de; CASTILHO, Kathia (Orgs.). Corpo e moda: por uma compreensão do contemporaneo. Barueri-SP: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2008.
OLIVEIRA, Ana Claudia Mei Alves de (Org.). Sociossemiótica I: moda, consumo, construção de imagem. Barueri: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2021.
RAINHO, Maria do Carmo Teixeira. Moda e revolução nos anos 1960. Rio de Janeiro: Contra Capa, 2014.
RAINHO, Maria do Carmo T. A moda como campo de estudos do historiador: balanço da produção acadêmica no Brasil. In: Anais 11º Colóquio de Moda, 8ª Edição Internacional, Curitiba, 2015. v. 1.
SALLES, Manon. Museologia da moda – acervos e coleções no Brasil. 1. ed. São Paulo: Alameda Casa Editorial, 2023.
SANTANNA, Denize Bernuzzi de. História da beleza no Brasil. São Paulo: Contexto, 2014.
SANTANNA, Mara Rúbia. Teoria de moda: sociedade, imagem e consumo. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2007.
VIANA, Fausto. O traje de cena como documento. 2a ed. São Paulo: ECA/USP, 2024.
Issue 49:
Dossier 49
Fashion and philosophy: between production and thought
Organizers:
Larissa Almada - Senac-SP
Guido Conrado - Senac-RJ
Deadline for submissions: July 31, 2026
Publication due to April or August 2027
Dressing, creating, developing, and marketing fashion are poetic acts of social production. We use the term poetic because both poetry and production share the same Greek root - poiesis - and with that, we aim to highlight that producing fashion cannot be reduced to the material making of clothes and accessories. Here, fashion is also understood as a mechanism for producing subjectivity, an expanded field for understanding the ways of living and organizing society.
Historically, many thinkers from the field of philosophy have reflected on the complexity of fashion as a phenomenon, considering its ethical, aesthetic, and political implications. For this reason, it is increasingly common for researchers in fashion to draw from philosophical authors to deepen their analyses of the practices of creation, production, and circulation of these wearable forms and artifacts.
This dossier seeks to provide an explicit space for dialogue and intersections between the fields of fashion and philosophy. It aims to share not only evidence of fashion’s contributions to philosophical reflection, through reviews or critical commentaries on thinkers who have addressed the subject, but also philosophy’s contributions to fashion studies, through fashion works that use philosophical concepts as productive material and through original philosophical reflections that find in fashion production and consumption a fertile ground for thought.
The main objective of this dossier is to offer a space for visibility and academic debate about the undisciplined relationships between fashion and philosophy. We wish to foster interdisciplinary or non-disciplinary dialogues, bringing together contributions that explore fashion as an object of philosophical reflection and that use philosophical thought as a tool for critical analysis of fashion. We also aim to promote intersections among aesthetic, ethical, and political perspectives, considering fashion within the contexts of its symbolic and material production.
In doing so, we intend not only to enrich the field of fashion studies but also to demonstrate its relevance and thematic strength for philosophy’s effort to understand contemporary social phenomena.
Proposed Structure
To encompass the diversity of approaches that the intersection between fashion and philosophy allows, this dossier welcomes works in different formats, open to the submission of:
Translations: We will accept unpublished translations into Portuguese of philosophical texts, classical or contemporary, that directly address themes such as fashion in productive and symbolic contexts.
Reviews: We welcome critical reviews of philosophical works, newly released or historically significant, that discuss fashion and its social and cultural implications. Philosophical Reflections: We encourage the submission of essays and original articles presenting philosophical reflections on fashion, its modes of production, and its regimes of thought.
Interdisciplinary Contributions: We also welcome articles and analyses from the field of fashion that use consistent philosophical frameworks to reflect on issues related to creation, production, circulation, consumption, and the symbolic and material representation of fashion and clothing.
interviews: We would also be pleased to receive interviews whose themes adhere to the subject of this dossier.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
ACOM, A. C. O ser e a moda. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2023.
ALMADA, L. Teoria da Moda: reflexões contemporâneas. São Paulo: Editora Senac São Paulo, 2024.
BARTHES, R. Inéditos, vol. 3: imagem e moda. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 2005.
BAUDOT, F. Moda do século. São Paulo: Cosac Naify, 2002.
BENJAMIN, W. Passagens. Belo Horizonte: UFMG, 2009.
BERARDI, F. Asfixia: capitalismo financeiro e a insurreição da linguagem. São Paulo: Editora UBU, 2020.
CALANCA, D. História Social da Moda. São Paulo: Editora Senac, 2002.
CASTILHO, K. Moda e linguagem. São Paulo: Editora Anhembi Morumbi. 2009.
CHATAIGNER, G. História da Moda no Brasil. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2010.
CHAUI, M. Filosofia, um modo de vida. São Paulo: Planeta, 2025.
CHRISTO, D. C. Estrutura e funcionamento do campo de produção de objetos do vestuário no Brasil. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2016.
CIDREIRA, R. P. Os sentidos da moda: vestuário, comunicação e cultura. São Paulo: Annablume, 2005.
CIETTA, E. A economia da moda: porque hoje um bom modelo de negócios vale mais do que uma boa coleção. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2017.
CONRADO, G. Moda: uma trama filosófica. São Paulo: Editora Estação das Letras e Cores: Caleidoscópio, 2024.
DELEUZE, G. O que é a filosofia? Rio de Janeiro: Ed. 34, 1992.
DELEUZE, G. Conversações. Rio de Janeiro: Editora 34, 2008.
DELEUZE, G.; GUATTARI, Félix. Mil platôs: capitalismo e esquizofrenia. São Paulo, Ed. 34, 1995. v. 1.
DOWBOR, L. O capitalismo se desloca: novas arquiteturas sociais. São Paulo: SESC Edições, 2020.
FLÜGEL, J. A psicologia das roupas. São Paulo: Mestre Jou, 1966.
FOUCAULT, M. Microfísica do poder. Rio de Janeiro: Paz e Terra, 2017.
GUATTARI, F. Caosmose: um novo paradigma estético. São Paulo: Editora 34, 1992.
GRUMBACH, D. Histórias da moda. São Paulo: Cosac Naify, 2009.
KLEIN, N. Sem Logo: A tirania das marcas em um planeta vendido. Rio de Janeiro: Editora Record, 2002.
LAVER, J. A Roupa e a moda: uma história concisa. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, 2005.
LAZZARATO, M. As revoluções do capitalismo. Rio de janeiro: Civilização Brasileira, 2006.
LIPOVETSKY, G. O império do efêmero: a moda e seu destino nas sociedades modernas. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, 1989.
LIPOVETSKY, G. A felicidade paradoxal: ensaio sobre uma sociedade de hiperconsumo. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, 2007.
MESQUITA, C. Moda contemporânea: quatro ou cinco conexões possíveis. São Paulo: Editora Anhembi Morumbi, 2004.
PÉLBART, P. A vertigem por um fio: políticas da subjetividade contemporânea. São Paulo: Iluminuras, 2000.
PIKETTY, T. Capital e ideologia. Rio de Janeiro: Intrínseca, 2020.
PRECIOSA, R. Produção estética: notas sobre roupas, sujeitos e modos de vida. São Paulo: Anhembi Morumbi, 2007.
PRECIOSA, R.; MESQUITA, C. (org.) Moda em ziguezague: interfaces e expansões. São Paulo: Estação Das Letras e Cores, 2011.
RANCIÈRE, J. A partilha do sensível: estética e política. São Paulo: Editora 34, 2009.
RANCIÈRE, J. O destino das imagens. Rio de Janeiro: Contraponto, 2012.
ROCHE, D. A cultura das aparências. São Paulo: Editora SENAC, 2007.
ROLNIK, Suely. Cartografia sentimental: transformações contemporâneas do desejo. Porto Alegre: Sulina/UFRGS, 2007.
SABRÁ, F. G. C. Os agentes sociais envolvidos no processo criativo no desenvolvimento de produtos da cadeia têxtil. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2016.
SEMPRINI, A. A marca pós-moderna: poder e fragilidade da marca na sociedade contemporânea. São Paulo: Editora Estação das Letras e Cores, 2010.
SIMMEL, G. Filosofia da moda e outros escritos. Lisboa: Edições Texto & Grafia, 2008.
SIMONDON, G. A individuação à luz das noções de forma e de informação. São Paulo: Editora 34, 2020.
SIMONDON, G. Do modo de existência dos objetos técnicos. Rio de Janeiro: Contraponto, 2020.
STALLYBRASS, Peter. O casaco de Marx: roupas, memória, dor. Belo Horizonte: Autêntica, 2008.
SVENDSEN, L. Moda: uma filosofia. Rio de Janeiro: Zahar, 2010.
VIRNO, P. A gramática da multidão. Santa Maria, RS: Annablume, 2003.
Issue 48:
Dossier dObra[s] 48
History of Fashion and Costume: Dresses, Images and Representations of the Past
Organizers:
Paulo Debom – Senai Cetiqt / Escola de Artes Celso Lisboa
Camila Borges – Universidade do Estado do Rio de Janeiro
Deadline for submissions: April 30, 2026
Publication due to December 2026 and/or April 2027
Dress has long been recognized as one of the most significant expressions of social life. Beyond its aesthetic dimension, it functions as both a historical document and a cultural practice, offering insights into power relations, economic transformations, shifts in social interactions, and the construction of collective and individual identities.
In recent decades, however, the history of fashion and dress has changed beyond its status as merely an object of study, consolidating itself as an autonomous field of research with its own categories, specialized theoretical debates, and extensive dialogue with other areas of knowledge. Investigating the culture of appearances, therefore, entails not only analyzing it as a reflection of a given period but also recognizing it as a space for knowledge production and critical interpretation of history and culture.
The dossier History of Fashion and Dress: Garments, Images, and Representations of the Past aims to gather articles based on research anchored in primary sources and historical documents, grounded in the methodological rigor characteristic of historical inquiry. It seeks to embrace the multiplicity of perspectives that shape historical writing, including:
- Cultural History: analysis of representations, practices, and circulation of symbols, including their manifestations and experiences in the realm of digital culture;
- Political History: relations between power, the state, and dress;
- Economic History: production, circulation, and trade of textiles, clothing, and adornments;
- Social History: modes of life, class distinctions, and collective experiences;
- History of Labor: trades, working conditions, and transformations in the garment industry;
- History of Women and Gender: dress as a practice of identity construction and negotiation;
- Material and Cultural History: study of objects, artifacts, and vestiges of dress in their social and historical dimensions;
- Visual and Cultural History: analysis of images, representations, and visual practices connected to the culture of appearances, including interfaces with audiovisual experiences and cinematic, television, and digital media;
- Oral History: individual and collective narratives expressing memories, sensory experiences, and living experiences of dress;
- History and History Education: use of fashion and dress as pedagogical resources to understand historical processes and foster innovative teaching practices;
- History and Social Sciences: interdisciplinary dialogues between fashion, anthropology, sociology, and political science.
By articulating different historiographical traditions and approaches, the dossier seeks to encourage dialogue among scholars across diverse fields, recognizing the history of fashion and dress as an inherently interdisciplinary domain. It opens space for approaches that traverse cultural, political, economic, and social histories, including insights from social sciences, philosophy, art, design, and communication. Nevertheless, all submissions must be grounded in historical research, ensuring the methodological rigor and analytical consistency that support robust academic reflection.
Bibliography
BOURDIEU, Pierre. O poder simbólico. Rio de Janeiro: Editora Bertrand Brasil, 2007.
BONADIO, Maria Claudia; SILVA, Elisabeth Murilho da. História e Historiografia da Moda. São Paulo: Alameda Editorial, 2024.
BONADIO, Maria Cláudia; MATTOS, Maria de Fátima da S. Costa de (org.). História e cultura de moda. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores. 2011.
CALANCA, Daniela. História social da moda. SP: Editora SENAC, 2008.
CHARTIER, Roger. À beira da falésia: a história entre certezas e inquietudes. Porto Alegre: Editora da Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul, 2002.
DEBOM, Paulo. A moda e o vestuário como objetos de estudo na História. Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design, Florianópolis, v. 3, p. 13-26, 2019.
LIPOVETSKY, Gilles. O império do efêmero: a moda e seu destino nas sociedades modernas. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, 1989.
MERLO, Márcia (org.). Museus e moda. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2016.
MONTELEONE, Joana. O circuito das roupas: a corte, o consumo e a moda (Rio de Janeiro, 1840-1889). São Paulo: Alameda, 2022.
RAINHO, Maria do Carmo Teixeira. A Cidade e a Moda: novas pretensões, novas distinções – Rio de Janeiro, século XIX. Brasília: Editora Universidade de Brasília, 2002.
RAINHO, Maria do Carmo Teixeira. Moda e revolução nos anos 1960. Rio de Janeiro: Contracapa, 2014.
ROCHE, Daniel. História das coisas banais: nascimento do consumo (séc. XVII-XIX). RJ: Editora Rocco, 2000.
ROCHE, Daniel. A cultura das aparências: uma história da indumentária (séculos XVII-XVIII), SP: Editora SENAC, 2007
SILVA, Camila Borges; MONTELEONE, Joana; DEBOM, Paulo (orgs). A História na Moda, a Moda na História. São Paulo: Alameda editorial, 2019.
SILVA, Camila Borges da. O símbolo indumentário: distinção e prestígio no Rio de Janeiro (1808-1821). Secretaria Municipal de Cultura: Arquivo Geral da Cidade do Rio de Janeiro, 2010.
SIMILLI, Ivana; BONADIO, Maria Claudia. Histórias do vestir masculino: narrativas de moda, beleza e elegância. Maringá: Eduem, 2017.
SIMILLI, Ivana; Guilherme Telles da Silva. As Roupas na História: pesquisar, narrar e ensinar. Curitiba: Editora CRV, Brasil 2024.
VIANA, Iamara; COSTA, Valéria. Vestidas de (re)existência! Indumentárias de mulheres africanas e afro-diaspóricas no Brasil escravista. In: VIANA, Iamara; COSTA, Valéria (orgs). Mulheres afro-atlânticas e Ensino de História. Rio de Janeiro: Malê, 2023.
XAVIER, Giovana. História social da beleza negra. Rio de Janeiro: Rosa dos Tempos, 2021.
