You wear what you are: Identity and clothing consumption in the capsule-wardrobe adoption process

Authors

  • Érica Maria Calíope Sobreira
  • Clayton Robson Moreira da Silva
  • Áurio Lúcio Leocádio

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.i36.1617

Keywords:

Identity, Clothing consumption, Capsule-wardrobe

Abstract

This research aimed to understand the role of identity and clothing consumption in the capsule-wardrobe adoption process. A qualitative study has been developed with thirteen women who have adopted the capsule-wardrobe. Semistructured interviews and content analysis have been applied to collect and explore the data. Based on the findings, a diagram of the capsule-wardrobe adoption process has been proposed. The results indicate that capsule-wardrobe adoption process is intrinsically related to changes in the identity and clothing consumption of its adopters. The role of identity in this process was perceived through a transition from focusing on social identity to focusing on personal identity. Therefore, with the capsule-wardrobe adoption, “you wear what you are”. As research limitations, we mention the connection failures that have sometimes interrupted the interview flow. As managerial implications, we suggest that retailers and other companies might adapt or develop appropriate marketing strategies for this new segment of consumers: capsule-wardrobe adopters. For instance, products focused on durability and high quality (e.g., slow fashion) would be an alternative to reach those consumers. Slow fashion brands might focus on the connection between personal identity and fashion consumption as a visual representation of the individuals’ self (i.e., the “you wear what you are” idea) in their campaigns. Finally, this study contributes to the academic field as it proposes a diagram regarding the
capsule-wardrobe adoption process. It also contributes to the literature of studies on consumer identity projects in Consumer Culture Theory from the association of identity with clothing consumption.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Author Biographies

Érica Maria Calíope Sobreira

Doutoranda em Administração pela Universidade Federal do Paraná (UFPR). E-mail: erica.mcs21@gmail.com. Lattes: http://lattes.cnpq.br/5663270256838780.

Clayton Robson Moreira da Silva

Doutor em Administração e Controladoria pela Universidade Federal do Ceará (UFC). Professor do Instituto Federal de Educação, Ciência e Tecnologia do Piauí (IFPI). E-mail: claytonrmsilva@gmail.com. Lattes: http://lattes.cnpq.br/0767035754629106.

Áurio Lúcio Leocádio

Doutor em Administração pela Universidade de São Paulo (USP). Professor da Universidade Federal do Ceará (UFC). E-mail: aurioleocadio42@gmail.com. Lattes: http://lattes.cnpq.br/3637686507446252.

References

AHUVIA, A. Beyond the extended self: Loved objects and consumers’ identity narratives. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 32, n. 1, p. 171-184, 2005.

ALBINSSON, P.; PERERA, B. From trash to treasure and beyond: The meaning of voluntary disposition. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, v. 8, n. 6, p. 340-353, 2009.

ARNOULD, E. J.; THOMPSON, C. J. Introduction: Consumer Culture Theory: Ten years gone (and beyond). Consumer Culture Theory, v. 17, p. 1-21, 2015.

ASKEGAARD, S.; LINNET, J. Towards an epistemology of consumer culture theory. Marketing Theory, v. 11, n. 4, p. 381-404, 2011.

BALLANTINE, P. W.; CREERY, S. The consumption and disposition behaviour of voluntary simplifiers. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, v. 9, n. 1, p. 45-56, 2011.

BARDIN, L. Análise de Conteúdo. São Paulo: Almedina Brasil, 2011.

BARBOSA, L.; CAMPBELL, C. O Estudo do consumo nas ciências sociais contemporâneas. In:

BARBOSA, L.; CAMPBELL, C. (Org.), Cultura, Consumo e Identidade. Rio de Janeiro: FGV, 2006.

BARTHES, R. The fashion system. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1983.

BANISTER, E. N.; HOGG, M. K. Consumers and their negative selves, and the implications for fashion marketing. In: HINES, T.; BRUCE M. (Eds.), Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues. Oxford: Elsevier Ltd, 2007.

BECKER-LEIFHOLD, C.; IRAN, S. Collaborative fashion consumption–drivers, barriers and future pathways. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, v. 22, n. 2, p. 189-208, 2018.

BELK, R. W. Possessions and the extended self. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 15, n. 2, p. 139-168, 1988.

CAMPBELL, C. Eu compro; logo, sei que existo: as bases metafísicas do consumo moderno. In: BARBOSA, L.; CAMPBELL, C. (Org.), Cultura, Consumo e Identidade. Rio De Janeiro: Editora FGV, 2006.

CASTELLS, M. The power of identity. Oxford: Blackwell, 1997.

CASOTTI, L. M.; SUAREZ, M. C. Dez anos de Consumer Culture Theory: delimitações e aberturas. Revista de Administração de Empresas, v. 56, n. 3, p. 353-359, 2016.

CHERRIER, H. Anti-consumption discourses and consumer-resistant identities. Journal of Business Research, v. 62, n. 2, p. 281-190, 2009.

DENZIN, N. K.; LINCOLN, Y. S. O planejamento da pesquisa qualitativa: teorias e abordagens. Porto Alegre: Bookman, 2006.

DITTMAR, H. Consumer culture, identity and well-being: The search for the ‘good life’ and the ‘body perfect’. Hove: Psychology Press, 2008.

DOUGLAS, M.; ISHERWOOD, B. O mundo dos bens: para uma antropologia do consumo. Rio de Janeiro: UFRJ, 2004.

DOUGHER, K. You’re doing the “capsule wardrobe” wrong. 2015 Disponível em: <http://fashionmagazine.com/fashion/youre-doing-the-capsule-wardrobe-wrong/>. Acesso em: 20 abr. 2022.

ELGIN, D. Simplicidade voluntária: em busca de um estilo de vida exteriormente simples, mas interiormente rico. São Paulo: Cultrix, 2012.

ESCALAS, J. Self-identity and consumer behavior. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 39, n. 5, p. 15-18, 2013.

FERREIRA, M. C.; SCARABOTO, D. My plastic dreams: Towards an extended understanding of materiality and the shaping of consumer identities. Journal of Business Research, v. 69, n. 1, p. 191-207, 2016.

FLETCHER, K. Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. London: Earthscan, 2014.

FRANCIS, J.; JOHNSTON, M.; ROBERTSON C. What is an adequate sample size? Operationalizing data saturation for theory-based interview studies. Psychology Health, v. 25, n. 10, p. 1229-1245, 2010.

GAIÃO, B. F. S.; SOUZA, I. L.; LEÃO, A. M. S. Consumer Culture Theory (CCT) já é uma escola de pensamento em marketing?. Revista de Administração de Empresas, v. 52, n. 3, p. 330-344, 2012.

GRONOW, J. The sociology of taste. London and New York: Routledge, 1997.

GUY, A.; BANIM, M. Personal collections: Women’s clothing use and identity. Journal of Gender Studies, v. 9, n. 3, p. 313-327, 2000.

HALL, S. A identidade cultural na pós-modernidade. Rio de Janeiro: DP&A, 2005.

HEGER, G. The capsule closet phenomenon: A phenomenological study of lived experiences with capsule closets. 2016. Thesis (Master in Textile Management) – The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, 2016.

HOKKANEN, S. Fashion brands and consumption in postmodern consumer culture: The construction of self and social identities. 2014. Thesis (Master in Textile Management) – The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, 2014.

IRAN, S. Sustainable Fashion: from production to alternative consumption. In: JASTRAM, S.;

SCHNEIDER, AM. (Eds.) Sustainable Fashion. Cham: Springer, 2018, p. 139-159.

IRAN, S.; SCHRADER, U. Collaborative fashion consumption and its environmental effects. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 21, n. 4, p.468-482, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-09-2016-0086.

JYRINKI, H. Pet-related consumption as a consumer identity constructor. International Journal of Consumer Studies, v. 36, n. 1, p. 114-120, 2012.

KAISER, S. B. The social psychology of clothing: Symbolic appearances in context. New York: Macmillan Publishers, 1990.

KAISER, S. B. The social psychology of clothing. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1997.

KARG, C. New fashion minimalism in an affluent society: A paradigm shift?. 2015. Thesis (Master in Textile Management) – The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, 2015.

KUMAR, R.; VACCARO, K. An experimentation engine for data-driven fashion systems. In: AAAI 2017 SPRING SYMPOSIUM, 4., 2017, Illinois, Anais… Illinois: AAAI Publications, 2017, p. 389-394.

MCNEILL, L. S. Fashion and women’s self-concept: A typology for self-fashioning using clothing. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, v. 22, n. 1, p. 82-98, 2018.

MCNEILL, L. S.; SNOWDON, J. Slow fashion–Balancing the conscious retail model within the fashion marketplace. Australasian Marketing Journal, v. 27, n. 4, p. 215-223, 2019.

MERRIAM, S. Qualitative research: A guide to design and implementation. New York: Jossey-Bass, 2009.

PHILLIPS, B. J.; SEGO, T. The role of identity in disposal: lessons from mothers’ disposal of children’s possessions. Marketing Theory, v. 11, n. 4, p. 435-454, 2011.

RAINHO, M. C. T.; VOLPI, M. C. Looking at Brazilian fashion studies: Fifty years of research and teaching. International Journal of Fashion Studies, v. 5, n. 1, p. 211-226, 2018.

RECTOR, C. How to Create a Capsule Wardrobe. 2015. Disponível em: <http://theeverygirl.com/how-to-create-a-capsule-wardrobe>. Acesso em: 20 abr. 2022.

REES, A. Os segredos do guarda-roupa europeu: um método simples para descobrir seu estilo e montar o armário dos seus sonhos. São Paulo: Paralela, 2017.

REED, A.; FOREHAND, M. R.; PUNTONI, S.; WARLOP, L. Identity-based consumer behavior. International Journal of Research in Marketing, v. 29, n. 4, p. 310-321, 2012.

RICHINS, M. L.; DAWSON, S. A consumer values orientation for materialism and its measurement: scale development and validation. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 19, n. 3, p. 303-316, 1992.

ROACH-HIGGINS, M. E.; EICHER, J. B. Dress and identity. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, v. 10, n. 4, p. 2-9, 1992.

SCHULTZ KLEINE, S.; KLEINE III, R. E.; ALLEN, C. T. How is a possession ‘me’ or ‘not me’? Characterizing types and an antecedent of material possession attachment. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 22, p. 327–343, 1995.

SOBREIRA, É. M. C.; SILVA, C. R. M.; ROMERO, C. B. A. Do empowerment and materialism influence slow fashion consumption? Evidence from Brazil. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, v. 24, n. 3, p. 415-435, 2020.

SOBREIRA, É. M. C.; SILVA, C. R. M.; ROMERO, C. B. A. Consumo Colaborativo de Moda e Slow fashion: percursos para uma moda sustentável. Modapalavra e-periódico, v. 14, n. 34, p.35-60, 2021.

SOLOMON, M.; SCHOPLER, J. Self-consciousness & clothing. Personality & Social Psychology Bulletin, v. 8, n. 3, p. 508-514, 1982.

SPIGGLE, S. Analysis and interpretation of qualitative data in consumer research. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 21, n. 3, p. 491-503, 1994.

TAJFEL, H.; TURNER, C. J. The social identity theory of intergroup behavior. Chicago: Nelson-Hall, 1986.

TOWNSEND, C.; SOOD, S. Self-affirmation through the choice of highly aesthetic products. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 39, n. 2, p. 415-428, 2012.

TRUDEL, R.; ARGO, J. J.; MENG, M. D. The recycled self: consumers’ disposal decisions of identity-linked products. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 43, n. 2, p. 246–264, 2016.

VAN DER LAAN, E.; VELTHUIS, O. Inconspicuous dressing: a critique of the constructionthrough-consumption paradigm in the sociology of clothing. Journal of Consumer Culture, v. 16, n. 1, p. 22–42, 2016.

VEHMAS, K.; RAUDASKOSKI, A.; HEIKKILÄ, P.; HARLIN, A.; MENSONEN, A. Consumer attitudes and communication in circular fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, v. 22, n. 3, p. 286-300, 2018.

WATTANASUWAN, K. The self and symbolic consumption. Journal of American Academy of Business, v. 6, n. 1, p. 179-184, 2005.

WHITE, K.; DAHL, D. W. Are all out-groups created equal? Consumer identity and dissociative influence. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 34, n. 4, p. 525-536, 2007.

WHITE, K., ARGO, J. J.; SENGUPTA, J. Dissociative versus associative responses to social identity threat: the role of consumer self-construal. Journal of Consumer Research, v. 39, n. 4, p. 704-719, 2012.

WOODWARD, S. Looking good: Feeling right – Aesthetics of the self. In: KÜCHLER, S.; MILLER, D. (Eds.). Clothing as Material Culture. Oxford: Berg Publishers, 2005. p. 21-40.

ZAVESTOSKI, S. The social-psychological bases of anticonsumption attitudes. Psychology and Marketing, v. 19, n. 2, p. 149-165, 2002.

Published

2022-12-05

How to Cite

CALÍOPE SOBREIRA, Érica M. .; MOREIRA DA SILVA, C. R. . .; LEOCÁDIO, Áurio L. . You wear what you are: Identity and clothing consumption in the capsule-wardrobe adoption process. dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda, [S. l.], n. 36, p. 300–319, 2022. DOI: 10.26563/dobras.i36.1617. Disponível em: https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/article/view/1617. Acesso em: 19 may. 2024.

Issue

Section

Articles