Is your excellency for the adoption of the jupe-culotte? Scandal and pattern making in 1911
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.i31.1311Keywords:
Jupe-culotte, Poiret, Diaghilev, Herminia GonçalvesAbstract
In 1911, the city of São Paulo was invaded, on the eve of the inauguration of the Municipal Theater, by a new fashion that had already haunted Old World cities such as Rome and Paris. This last cry of fashion had also been heard in the then Federal Capital, Rio de Janeiro, when ladies who wore the costume had to be escorted to escape the streets safely. The article investigates the reasons for this animosity and offers the researcher the pattern of the jupe-culotte, based on pattern-cutting manuals and period fashion magazines and in a museological institution, for artistic use and recreation.
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References
A VIDA MODERNA. São Paulo, Armando de Queiroz Mondego, 1907-1922. 1911. Edição 85.
BUTTERICK. The Dressmaker: a complete book on all matters connected with Sewing and Dressmaking: from the simplest stiches to the cutting, making, altering, mending and caring for the clothes. New York: The Butterick Publishing Company, 1911.
ILLUSTRAÇÃO PAULISTA. São Paulo, Editora A. Machado & Comp, 1910-1919. 1911. Edições 11, 12, 13 e 22.
KODA, Harold; BOLTON, Andrew. Poiret. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2007.
LAVER, James. A roupa e a moda: uma história concisa. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, 1989.
WOMAN’S LOUNGING PAJAMAS. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, s.d. Disponível em: http://www.lacma.org/sites/default/files/FF_patterns_54.97.17axxxb.pdf. Acesso em: 10 ago. 2020.
UNDERTAKING THE MAKING. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, s.d. Disponível em: https://www.lacma.org/patternproject. Acesso em: 16 ago. 2020.
THORNTON, John. International System of Ladie’s Garment Cutting. London: The Thornton Institute, [1911?].
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