From parading techniques to body leaks
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.i36.1610Keywords:
Body, Fashion shows, Techniques, Expressiveness, Body leaksAbstract
This article intends to approach the bodies of fashion shows, from the understanding of the body as an expressive sensorimotor force, which allows us to consider, in the midst of the visible uniformity of performances on the catwalks, the existence of nuances of the compositional specificities of such apparitions. Thus, we will present the notion of body leaks, defended in the thesis Metaphor of the hanger: body and apparition in the fashion shows (LEAHY, 2018), especially from the notions of body techniques, by the sociologist and anthropologist Marcel Mauss (2003), and of body schema, by the phenomenologist philosopher Maurice Merleau-Ponty (1999). After situating the ways in which the dressed bodies performed their performances in the parades until the contemporary ways, we deal with the issue of body techniques used specifically in the activity of bodies on the catwalks, which can be understood as parading techniques. From brief examples of fashion shows from São Paulo Fashion Week 42 (SPFW42) in 2016, analyzed in the thesis, we
will perceive and discuss the leaks operated and expressed by these bodies, recognizing them as elaborated in a culture, brokered as sensitive and moving force.
Downloads
References
CAST MODELS. Informativo da agência de modelos CAST MODELS. Arquivo pessoal. Salvador, 2003.
DEBORD, Guy. A sociedade do espetáculo. E-book: eBooksBrasil.com, 2003.
DUGGAN, Ginger Gregg. O maior espetáculo da terra: os desfiles de moda contemporâneos e sua relação com a arte performática. In: Fashion Theory: a revista da moda, corpo e cultura, v.1, n. 2. São Paulo: Editora Anhembi Morumbi, 2002.
EVANS, Caroline. Le défilé de mode au début du XXe siècle à Paris: esthétique industrielle et aliénation moderniste. In: MUSÉE GALLIERA. Showtime. Le défilé de mode. Catalogue d’exposition: Musée Galliera, Paris, 3 mars/30 juillet, 2006. Paris: Paris Musées, 2006.
EVANS, Caroline. O espetáculo encantado. In: Fashion Theory. A Revista da Moda, Corpo e Cultura, v. 1, n. 2, São Paulo: Anhembi Morumbi, 2002.
HELBO, André. Introduction. Polysémies de la performance. In: HELBO, André. (Org.). Performance et savoirs. Paris: De Boeck Supérieur, 2011. p. 7-12.
LAPPARTIENT, Vincent. Le défilé spectacle. In: MUSÉE GALLIERA, Showtime. Le défilé de mode. Catalogue d’exposition. Musée Galliera, Paris, 3 mars/30 juillet, 2006. Paris: Paris Musées, 2006.
LIPOVETSKY, Gilles; Serroy, Jean. L’esthétisation du monde. Paris: Éditions Gallimard, 2013.
LE BRETON, David. A sociologia do corpo. 2a ed. Trad. Sonia M. S. Fuhrmann. Petrópolis: Vozes, 2007.
LEAHY, Renata Costa. Metáfora do cabide: corpo e aparição nos desfiles de moda. 419 f. Tese (Doutorado em Cultura e Sociedade; Doctorat en Langues, Littératures et Civilisations Romanes: Portugais) – Instituto de Humanidades, Artes e Ciências Professor Milton Santos, Universidade Federal da Bahia; École Doctorale Lettres, Langues, Spectacles, Université Paris Nanterre; Salvador / Nanterre, 2018.
MAUSS, Marcel. As técnicas do corpo. In: MAUSS, Marcel. Sociologia e Antropologia. São Paulo: Cosac Naify, 2003. p. 399-422.
MERLEAU-PONTY, Maurice. Fenomenologia da percepção. Trad. Carlos Alberto Ribeiro de Moura. 2 ed. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 1999.
OLIVEIRA, Ana Claudia de. Visualidade processual da aparência. In: OLIVEIRA, Ana Claudia de. CASTILHO, Kathia. (Orgs.). Corpo e moda: por uma compreensão do contemporâneo. Barueri: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2008. p. 93-104.
PAREYSON, Luigi. Estética: teoria da formatividade. Trad. Ephraim Ferreira Alves. Petrópolis: Vozes, 1993.
POIRET, Paul. Le mannequin. In: CHARTON, Ariane. Le goût de la mode. Paris: Mercure de France, 2017, p. 36.
QUICK, Harriet. Défilés de moda: une histoire du mannequin. Courbevoie: Éditions Soline, 1997.
VALVERDE, Monclar. Estética da comunicação – sentido, forma e valor nas cenas da cultura. Salvador: Quarteto, 2007.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
The copyrights of the works published in this journal belong to the author, and dObra[s] holds the rights of first publication. Due to their publication in this open access journal, any work here is free to use, with its own attributions, in educational and non-commercial applications.