Angels with dirty faces: punk, fashion, and contemporary iconoclasms
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.26563/dobras.v12i26.917Keywords:
Fashion. Punk. Do-it-yourself.Abstract
In this article we propose an analysis of the genesis of Portuguese punk fashion. Due to the overvaluation of the London reality, punk clothing reveals, at first glance, a character of homogeneity. However, through the consideration of different socio-historical realities and contexts, a more careful view of what punk fashion really was and is today may be established. In Portugal, at the time of its emergence from four decades of dictatorship, this fashion constituted a form of disruption. Through a set of interviews with key actors of the Portuguese punk scene, we will try to analyze how this disruptive fashion was triggered and, also, how it can be distinguished from other realities.
Downloads
References
ADORNO, Theodor W. Perennial fashion – jazz. In: ADORNO, Theodor W. Tradução Shierry Weber Nicholsen. Prisms. Cambridge: MIT Press, 1981. p. 119-132.
BELL, Celeste; HOWE, Zoe. Dayglo: The Poly Styrene Story. Londres: Omnibus Press, 2019.
BOURDIEU, Pierre. A distinção. Uma crítica social da faculdade do juízo. Tradução Pedro Elói. Lisboa: Edições 70, 2010.
CARTLEDGE, Frank. Distress to Impress? Local Punk Fashion and Commodity Exchange. In: ROGER, Sabin (ed.). Punk Rock: So What? The Cultural Legacy of Punk. Londres: Routledge, 1999. p. 143-154.
CLARKE, Jean S.; HOLT, Robin. Vivienne Westwood and the Ethics of Consuming Fashion. Journal of Management Inquiry, v. 25, n. 2, p. 199-213, 2016. Disponível em: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1056492615592969?journalCode=jmia. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1056492615592969
CLARKE, John et al. Subcultures, Cultures and Class. In: GELDER, Ken; THORNTON, Sarah (ed.). The Subculture Reader Londres: Routledge, 1997. p. 100-111.
COLEGRAVE, Stephen; SULLIVAN, Chris. Punk. Hors limites. Paris: Éditions du Seuil, 2002.
CRANE, Diana. Diffusion Models and Fashion: A Reassessment. The Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science, v. 566, n. 1, p. 13–24, 1999. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1177/1056492615592969. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0002716299566001002
FIELD, George A. The Status Float Phenomenon: The Upward Diffusion of Innovation. Business Horizons, v. 1, n. 4, p. 45-52, 1970. Disponível em: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0007681370901576. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/0007-6813(70)90157-6
GEERTZ, Clifford. Ideology as a Cultural System. In: APTER, David E. (ed.). Ideology and Discontent. Nova Iorque: Free Press, 1964.
GUERRA, Paula; QUINTELA, Pedro. O resto ainda é Hebdige. In: HEBDIGE, Dick. Subcultura. O significado do estilo. Lisboa: Maldoror, 2018. p. 5-71.
GUERRA, Paula; SILVA, Augusto Santos. Music and more than music: The approach to difference and identity in the Portuguese punk. European Journal of Cultural Studies, v. 18, n. 2, p. 207-223, 2014. Disponível em: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1367549414563294. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1367549414563294
GUERRA, Paula; STRAW, Will. I wanna be your punk: o universo de possíveis do punk, do D.I.Y. e das culturas underground. Cadernos de Arte e Antropologia, v. 6, n. 1, p. 5-16, 2017. Disponível em: https://journals.openedition.org/cadernosaa/1189. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4000/cadernosaa.1189
GUERRA, Paula; XIAO, Jian. A Comparison between Portuguese and Chinese Punks: A Genealogy, Style, and Space. In: XIAO, Jian (ed.). Punk Culture in Contemporary China Singapore: Palgrave Macmillan, 2018. p. 177-199. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-0977-9_8
GUERRA, Paula. “Just can’t go to sleep”: DIY cultures and alternative economies from the perspective of social theory. Portuguese Journal of Social Science, v. 16, n. 3, p.283-303, 2017. Disponível em: https://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/intellect/pjss/2017/00000016/00000003/art00002. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/pjss.16.3.283_1
GUERRA, Paula. A instável leveza do rock: génese, dinâmica e consolidação do rock alternativo em Portugal. Porto: Afrontamento, 2013.
GUERRA, Paula. A instável leveza do rock: génese, dinâmica e consolidação do rock alternativo em Portugal (1980-2010). 2010. Tese (Doutorado em Sociologia) – Faculdade de Letras, Universidade do Porto, Porto, 2010. Disponível em: https://repositorio-aberto.up.pt/bitstream/10216/56304/3/volume2000129546.pdf. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019.
GUERRA, Paula. E nada mais foi como dantes: fragmentos contraculturais e seus estilhaços no pós-Abril de 1974 em Portugal. Teoria e Cultura, v. 13, n. 1, p. 195-214, 2018. Disponível em: https://periodicos.ufjf.br/index.php/TeoriaeCultura/article/view/12396.pdf. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.34019/2318-101X.2018.v13.12396
GUERRA, Paula. Keep it rocking: the social space of Portuguese alternative rock (1980–2010). Journal of Sociology, v. 51, n. 1, p. 615-630, 2015. Disponível em: https://journals. sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1440783315569557. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1440783315569557
GUERRA, Paula. Punk, expectations, breaches, and metamorphoses. Critical Arts, v. 28, n. 1, p. 195-211, 2014. Disponível em: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/02560046.2014.883697. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/02560046.2014.883697
GUERRA, Paula et al. Collants, correntes e batons: género e diferença na cultura punk em Portugal e no Brasil. Lectora: revista de dones i textualitat, n. 23, p. 13-34, 2017. Disponível em: http://revistes.ub.edu/index.php/lectora/article/view/Lectora%202017.23.2. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019.
HALL, Stuart. Culture, the Media and the “Ideological Effect”. In: CURRAN, James et al. (ed.). Mass Communication and Society. Londres: Arnold, 1977.
HEBDIGE, Dick. Contemporizing ‘subculture’: 30 years to life. European Journal of Cultural Studies, v. 15, n. 3, p. 399-424, 2012. Disponível em: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1367549412440525. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1367549412440525
HEBDIGE, Dick. Subcultura: o significado do estilo. Tradução Paula Guerra e Pedro Quintela. Lisboa: Maldoror, 2018.
HESMONDHALGH, David. Subcultures, scenes or tribes? None of the above. Journal of Youth Studies, v. 8, n. 1, p. 21-40, 2005. Disponível em: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/13676260500063652. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/13676260500063652
LAING, David. One Chord Wonders: Power and Meaning in Punk Rock. Milton Keynes: Open University Press, 1985.
MCKAY, George. Senseless Acts of Beauty: Cultures of Resistance since the Sixties. Londres: Verso, 1996.
MCROBBIE, Angela. Second-hand dresses and the role of the ragmarket. In: GELDER, Ken; THORNTON, Sarah (ed.). The Subculture Reader. Londres: Routledge, 1997. p. 191-199.
MULVAGH, Jane. Vivienne Westwood: An Unfashionable Life. Nova Iorque: HarperCollins, 2011.
POLHEMUS, Ted. Street Style: From Sidewalk to Catwalk. Londres: Thames & Hudson, 1994.
SILVA, Augusto Santos; GUERRA, Paula. As palavras do punk. Lisboa: Alêtheia, 2015.
SIMMEL, Georg. Filosofia da Moda. Tradução Fernando Baptista Leite. Lisboa: Textos & Grafia, 2014.
SKRBIS, Zlatko; WOODWARD, Ian. Cosmopolitanism: Uses of the Idea. Londres: Sage, 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4135/9781446288986
STEELE, Valerie. Anti-Fashion: The 1970s. Fashion Theory, v. 1, n. 3, p. 279-295, 1997. Disponível em: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270497779640134. Acesso em: 26 jun. 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2752/136270497779640134
THORNTON, Sarah. Club Cultures: Music, Media and Subcultural Capital. Londres: Polity, 1995.
UNSWORTH, Cathi; MOONEY, Jordan. Defying Gravity: Jordan’s Story. Londres: Omnibus Press, 2019.
WESTWOOD, Vivienne; KELLY, Ian. Vivienne Westwood. Londres: Picador, 2015.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
The copyrights of the works published in this journal belong to the author, and dObra[s] holds the rights of first publication. Due to their publication in this open access journal, any work here is free to use, with its own attributions, in educational and non-commercial applications.